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Routes in Santaquin Canyon Ice

Angel of Fear WI5-6
Automatic Control Theory WI5-6
Backoff WI4
Candlestick, The WI5-6
Get Back on It WI4
Martini S M9 A0-1
Squash Head WI3-4
Unnamed WI3
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Ice, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Doug Hansen
Page Views: 2,902 total, 21/month
Shared By: John Ross on Oct 29, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Mt. Nebo Wilderness on south side of Santaquin Canyon. Details

Description

Usually done in two pitches. The first pitch is a steep curtain of ice about 40 feet tall. In poor conditions there is a bolt ladder on the left to bypass the first curtain. The 10 bolt ladder is a route called Martini (A0, M8-9).

P1 (WI4): Usually lots of water running down the first curtain and lots of air pockets. Hopefully good screw placements can be found. Pull over the top to low angle climbing for 30 feet, then walk up a short distance to a scramble to chain anchors on the left.

P2 (WI3): Another exciting pitch. Climb the narrow formation for 50 feet to a low angle chute. Chain anchors are up the chute on the left.

Rappel the route, or continue on to Backoff. To get to Backoff, scramble up the rock/snow above Squash Head's top anchors to the top of the ridge to rappel chains. Rap down the other side of the ridge using a single 60m rope to reach the bottom of Backoff.

Name History: Squash Head was an indian chief that saved the lives of local settlers when he heard of an impending indian raid. Squash Head warned the settlers and told them to leave or they would be killed. After the incident the settlers wanted to name the town after him. Squash Head instead asked that the town be named after his son Santaquin.

Location

The route is on the south side of the canyon .50 miles up the canyon from the Trumbolt Picnic Area locked gate. The climb is easily seen from the road. Short hike from the road to the base.

Protection

Pro: Bring long ice screws for the first curtain. Shorter screws may be needed over the top.
Rope: 60m (1 rappel to Backoff, or three rappels back down Squash Head)
Anchors: chains

Under the right conditions avalanches can rip down this gully.
Also, it should be noted that you can reach the base of Backoff from the top of squash head with a single 60m rope. At least we were able to yesterday. Jan 25, 2009
Warning! Squash Head is prone to avalanches from above. In Jan. 07' my partner and I found a huge debris field with timber in it at the base. Other than that, great route when combined with Backoff. Oct 10, 2007