Avg: 3.9 from 14 votes
|Type:||Ice, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Brian Smoot, Bill Robbins, 1985|
|Page Views:||4,517 total · 27/month|
|Shared By:||shawn Kenney on Nov 1, 2006|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
Begin by climbing a 20 meter opening pitch to the snow bowl above. To the right of the second pitch column, there is a bolted belay station. The Second pitch climbs a steep pillar that may be capped by a roof to gain the ledge above, known as the first of the the angel's wings. Five meters above the first lege a second ledge is located, with a single bolt found to the right of the column where the third pitch belay is usually located. This is also the spot where the route, Holy Ghost comes into The Angel from the right. The third pitch leaves the belay cave on steep ice to gain the front of the column ~15 meters above where the angle eases back into WI4 climbing to a single bolt anchor above and left of the top out.
Above the route a short WI4 is found named "The Halo" If you made it this far, and you are not soaking wet by now (the case for 2020 ascents) ascend to heaven and finish it.
To get down, a 60M double rope rap from the single bolt gets you to the cone that is the base of the second pitch. From there, a single 60 rap from a tree (climbers left of the second pitch) will get you back to your packs.