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Routes in Santaquin Canyon Ice

Angel of Fear WI5-6
Automatic Control Theory WI5-6
Backoff WI4
Candlestick, The WI5-6
Get Back on It WI4
Martini S M9 A0-1
Squash Head WI3-4
Unnamed WI3
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Ice, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Brian Smoot, Bill Robbins, 1985
Page Views: 3,275 total, 24/month
Shared By: shawn Kenney on Nov 1, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Mt. Nebo Wilderness on south side of Santaquin Canyon. Details


Starts on a thin pillar. This section is not always in.


Hike about .40 miles from the gate keeping your eyes on the South wall until 3 routes come into view. Climb the gully. White Angle of Fear is the formation on the far left. Rappel the trees. Two ropes.


Climbed this amazing route with Alisa Marie this Feb 25th 2010 and it was so **cking good. Keep to the left on the second pitch as the water hose was flowing hard over the pillar proper, which was much trickier than the last steepest looking (from the ground) 3rd p pillar. This route has stuck in my mind and I often play the tape recorder of its memory thru my head before sleeping. Mar 5, 2010
I had to wait many years to climb this route, since it doesn´t happen very often. This year I was there three times and ended up doing the mixed routes around it. I finally got to climb the actual ice route on Wednesday. It is one of the finest ice pitches I have climbed. We tried to climb it in one long pitch with 70 meter ropes and almost made it to the top but the drag was getting really bad since I had to go around the pillar looking for the good ice (it was too warm and the surface was very deteriorated).

Beautiful route. Mar 5, 2010
Allen Sanderson
Allen Sanderson   Oootah
I added a photo that has a similar perspective as one of the 1985 photos. The 2010 formation is still much leaner than in 1985. Mar 3, 2010
bheller   SL UT
I must say this is one of the finest routes I have ever climbed! What a stroke of luck to have been able to climb it when it formed! Feb 21, 2010

Most of the time I try not to give star ratings to my own routes because I like to see what others rate them without my input.

That said, because the climb was so unique, I would give it a 4 star / classic rating. The climbing was continually steep and challenging. The ice varied from solid to hollow. There were ice caves, hidden passages, bazaar mushroom formations, chimneys, mandatory overhangs that had to be climbed and long sections of vertical ice.

Seth Shaw & Doug Heinrich made the 2nd ascent, (The ice hadn't quite touched down), they were psyched about the quality.

I've seen it form up at least twice since our ascent in 1985. When it comes in again, I'm there.

Edit-2010: It's great to see this come in again. Like before, this is a late season climb. It's colder than you think because it's higher in elevation. It's still capable of falling off at almost any time if the base is not stable. Protection actually seems better in leaner years...wasn't nearly as hard as in '85. Jan 6, 2008
I'm curious how one might ascertain the "star" quality of a climb without even climbing it?

bsmoot... care to weigh in on this one? Jan 3, 2008
A few corrections: The Ice Guide to Utah by Dave Black erroneously named this route. The correct name is just "Angel of Fear".

The length of Angel of Fear is more like 300'. It's also 3 pitches long...there is an approach pitch. You need to have a cold, wet season for this amazing pillar to form. Sep 9, 2007
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
Where is this route?

I've heard of the "Angel of Fear" in Santaquin, FA by Bill Robins and Brian Smoot.

Maybe this is near that route?

Great picture of it in IME in SLC. Nov 1, 2006