Elevation: 3,321 ft
GPS: 36.739, 139.131 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Halle835 on Feb 8, 2008 with improvements by Ben Lewis
Admins: Christian Storms

Japan climbing is better than you think!

Known for it's culture and hardcore rock climbers, Japan is an amazing and beautiful country. Mount Fuji is very well known but the rest of the Japanese Alps are a sight to be seen. The sheer amount of rock in Japan is staggering. The most popular areas in the country are generally over used, but there are more than enough areas to go around. There are also many, many areas yet to be made public that are being developed now, with many years of climbing in those areas alone. But hey, if you're a weekday climber like me, you've got the place to yourself most of the time.

Japan offers all types of volcanic rock and some granite. Routes from 1000 meter alpine lines to 12 meter 5.15's. The bouldering scene -- sure hope none of them want to really climb -- is most popular. In the Tokyo area there are over 20 bouldering spots. Many of these bouldering areas contain three to five boulders. This has to mainly do with the density of climbers in the Tokyo Prefecture.

The Japanese pride themselves as much in their politeness as they do in their comitment and determination to attaining a goal. There is a large population of climbers here that start climbing after retirement. Many of these climbers climb five days a week, only in an indoor gym and well into the 5.12+ range. Japan has around 200 climbing gyms as well.

Thanks to the Japanese Free-Climbers Association many of the popular climbing areas see new gear often. With this said there are many areas that are in desperate need of new gear.

A note on grades. There are two Japanese bouldering grade systems used. In the Toyota area the Toyota system is used. That system is an -a,b,c,d,e,f,g system with a being the easiest and increasing the difficulty with each letter. Everywhere else the kyu/dan (Ogawayama) system is used. Everywhere you go climbers know the V-scale and will gladly give you the sandbagged conversion. The Ogawayama system is a number system where the higher the number the easier. The numbers stop at 1 then 1-dan numbers start until 5-dan. Next is the Wheel of Life, most difficult grade. This system will be more familiar with those that have taken karate, since it is the same system used. I have to say that becoming accustom to this system takes time and is not straight forward at all. The main problem is that every single grade range includes two or three V-grades, IE 1 kyu, pronounced Q, is v5 to v6+.

As for rock climbing, the routes tend to be overly rated. A 5.10 in Japan is more than likely 5.10 in only one place. There is very little sandbagging here and the routes tend to be shorter. So come to Japan and immediately, jump up in rank.

Narita or Haneda?

Tokyo has two international airports: Narita and Haneda. From either, you can rent a car and go or take train/bus transport to get literally anywhere. Or give me a call and I'll pick you up.

482 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Japan

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V5-6 6C+
 9
Ninja Gaeshi
Boulder
V5-6 6C+
 3
Mountain Sunset
Boulder
V5-6 6C+
 5
Deadend
Boulder
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
 3
The Prince Route (Fujinomiya + G…
Trad, Alpine
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
Millennium
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Kiyoshi Jira
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 10
Habu Sake (Snake In A Bottle)
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
First Steps
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Easy Money
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 6
The Complete Package
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Excursion
Sport 6 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
Barb's Favorite
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 7
Runaway Goat
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 5
beauty and the beast
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 6
Easy Come, Easy Go (Nankurunaisa)
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ninja Gaeshi Tokyo Prefecture > Mitake
 9
V5-6 6C+ Boulder
Mountain Sunset Tokyo Prefecture > Mitake
 3
V5-6 6C+ Boulder
Deadend Tokyo Prefecture > Mitake
 5
V5-6 6C+ Boulder
The Prince Route (Fujinomiy… Shizuoka Prefec… > Mt Fuji > Fuji-san (Mt Fuji Vol…
 3
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Trad, Alpine
Millennium Okinawa Prefecture > … > Zatzun Tunnel > Zatzun N Side
 6
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Kiyoshi Jira Okinawa Prefecture > … > Zatzun Tunnel > Zatzun N Side
 3
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Habu Sake (Snake In A Bottle) Okinawa Prefecture > … > Mt Katsu (Katsu… > lost world
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Sport
First Steps Okinawa Prefecture > … > Zatzun Tunnel > south side
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Easy Money Okinawa Prefecture > … > Zatzun Tunnel > Zatzun N Side
 3
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Complete Package Okinawa Prefecture > … > Mt Katsu (Katsu… > lost world
 6
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Sport
Excursion Shizuoka Prefec… > Joyama
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 6 pitches
Barb's Favorite Okinawa Prefecture > … > Mt Katsu (Katsu… > middle ground
 5
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Runaway Goat Okinawa Prefecture > … > Mt Katsu (Katsu… > middle ground
 7
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
beauty and the beast Okinawa Prefecture > … > Mt Katsu (Katsu… > middle ground
 5
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Easy Come, Easy Go (Nankuru… Okinawa Prefecture > … > Mt Katsu (Katsu… > lost world
 6
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
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