Elevation: 3,321 ft
GPS: 36.739, 139.131 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Halle835 on Feb 8, 2008
Admins: Christian Storms

Japan climbing is better than you think!

Known for it's culture and hardcore rock climbers, Japan is an amazing and beautiful country. Mount Fuji -- which my friends is a dead volcano -- is very well know but the rest of the Japanese Alps are a sight to be seen. The sheer amount of rock in Japan is staggering. The most popular areas in the country are generally over used, but there are more than enough areas to go around. There are also many, many areas yet to be made public that are being developed now, with many years of climbing in those areas alone. But hey, if you're a weekday climber like me, you've got the place to yourself most of the time.

Japan offers all types of volcanic rock and some granite. Routes from 1000 meter alpine lines to 12 meter 5.15's. The bouldering scene -- sure hope none of them want to really climb -- is most popular. In the Tokyo area there are over 20 bouldering spots. Many of these bouldering areas contain three to five boulders. This has to mainly do with the density of climbers in the Tokyo Prefecture.

The Japanese pride themselves as much in their politeness as they do in their comitment and determination to attaining a goal. There is a large population of climbers here that start climbing after retirement. Many of these climbers climb five days a week, only in an indoor gym and well into the 5.12+ range. Japan has around 200 climbing gyms as well.

Thanks to the Japanese Free-Climbers Association many of the popular climbing areas see new gear often. With this said there are many areas that are in desperate need of new gear.

A note on grades. There are two Japanese bouldering grade systems used. In the Toyota area the Toyota system is used. That system is an -a,b,c,d,e,f,g system with a being the easiest and increasing the difficulty with each letter. Everywhere else the kyu/dan (Ogawayama) system is used. Everywhere you go climbers know the V-scale and will gladly give you the sandbagged conversion. The Ogawayama system is a number system where the higher the number the easier. The numbers stop at 1 then 1-dan numbers start until 5-dan. Next is the Wheel of Life, most difficult grade. This system will be more familiar with those that have taken karate, since it is the same system used. I have to say that becoming accustom to this system takes time and is not straight forward at all. The main problem is that every single grade range includes two or three V-grades, IE 1 kyu, pronounced Q, is v5 to v6+.

As for rock climbing, the routes tend to be overly rated. A 5.10 in Japan is more than likely 5.10 in only one place. There is very little sandbagging here and the routes tend to be shorter. So come to Japan and immediately, jump up in rank.

Narita or Haneda?

Tokyo has two international airports: Narita and Haneda. From either, you can rent a car and go or take train/bus transport to get literally anywhere. Or give me a call and I'll pick you up.

402 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Japan

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V3-4 6A+
Melting Softcream 3Q
V5-6 6C+
Ninja Gaeshi
V5-6 6C+
Mountain Sunset
V5-6 6C+
V7- 7A+
Kodomo Gaeshi
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Habu Sake (Snake In A Bottle)
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Battle Runner
Sport 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sport 6 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Runaway Goat
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Melting Softcream 3Q Tokyo Prefecture > Mitake
V3-4 6A+ Boulder
Ninja Gaeshi Tokyo Prefecture > Mitake
V5-6 6C+ Boulder
Mountain Sunset Tokyo Prefecture > Mitake
V5-6 6C+ Boulder
Deadend Tokyo Prefecture > Mitake
V5-6 6C+ Boulder
Kodomo Gaeshi Tokyo Prefecture > Mitake
V7- 7A+ Boulder
Habu Sake (Snake In A Bottle) Okinawa Prefecture > … > Mt Katsu (Katsu… > lost world
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Sport
Battle Runner Shizuoka Prefec… > Joyama
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 4 pitches
Excursion Shizuoka Prefec… > Joyama
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 6 pitches
Runaway Goat Okinawa Prefecture > … > Mt Katsu (Katsu… > middle ground
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Japan »

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Hello - I'm a California climber, looking for any advice about climbing Mt. Fuji / acclimation / other interesting hikes. I'm looking to acclimate for a few days at 3000m - thanks for any advice!! Aug 28, 2014
Axel Nilsson
Lakewood, Co
Axel Nilsson   Lakewood, Co
Hey! Just wondering if anyone has any good beta on where the best "dirtbaggin" crags are in Japan? Trad, sport or bouldering, its all good! Mar 3, 2015
Boulder, CO
ScoJo   Boulder, CO
Any recommendations for crags to try out in March? I'll be based in Ibaraki (near Mito), so I'll probably want to go somewhere north of Tokyo or close by. If there is anything that could be accessed with public transportation, that would be great, but I can probably figure something out otherwise. Primarily looking to sport climb.

I've checked out Ogawayama, which looks pretty rad, but seems like it would take some serious logistics to get to. Dec 30, 2015
Does anyone have advice or beta on alpine/mountaineering in Japan? Feb 22, 2016
hAVE NOTED that some comments asking questions have had NO replies that I can see. Perhaps I have missed something.
Me...going to Japan in May and wondering if there are any English speaking climbers who need a belayer. I am not a great climber. My best success is an 18. I broke my leg last year and have 2 plates and 13 pins from a fall of only 3 meters...but am ready to climb again. I have all the trad gear but am wondering if I should bring such a lot of (heavy) equipment.....perhaps sport climbing is sufficient.
I am 65 years young.

Looking for anyone who can give detailed information about how to get to a climbing area via public trans, or Other suggestions are welcomed.
here is my email address

could use some info on accommodation too

Looking forward to any and all responses. Mar 28, 2016
HI I am a climber from Detroit and I am looking for a partner (preferably a group) to climb and potentially camp with... i don't have gear besides harness and i have very virtually no experience lead climbing, but i would love to do a multi-pitch somewhere!!!! please contact me if you would like to connect!!

i am comfy climbing 5.9s in an indoor gym and i am capable of climbing 10s, i've done a couple 11s (but not well)

i will be arriving at haneda in tokyo on may 6th at 12:30p and i leave from narita on the 16th... i have a pretty flexible schedule while i am in the country so let me know what your travel plans are and ill try to make it happen!!!

email: irinalaura@gmail.com May 1, 2016
Hey there! Im coming to Japan This coming Tuesday, 5-10-16 ill be in Niigata for a little while. But will be able to travel. I have shoes, harness and a rope but I dont know much about the crags out there. Would love to check out some out door spots with people that know the area. I have lead climbing experience at indoor 5.11. I also dig bouldering.

Email me at Jfamarato@gmail.com May 7, 2016
Hi! I'm visiting my sister in Japan from now till June 19 but totally free from June 19-30 and looking to trek or climb. I have draws, no rope, no crash pad. Outdoor US lead about a 5.9 and work a 5.10.

Would LOVE to find people to camp/trek/boulder/climb with from June 19-30. Message me!

olishican@yahoo.com May 20, 2016
Hi everyone,

I am a climber from germany and will be visiting japan late July to mid August. I will arrive in Osaka the 25th of July and wanted to work my way up to the north, since the weather is supposed to be better, but so far I have no precise plans. I would like to go out for some boulder sessions. Does anyone have information on where to go? Where are famous bouldering areas? Or is even someone in japan to show me around or join?
Also happy for advice on climbing mt. fuji!

Hope to hear from anyone :)
Moritz (schmor@gmail.com) Jun 30, 2016
Mike Kim
Hermosa Beach, CA
Mike Kim   Hermosa Beach, CA
Hey all,
climber from new york heading to Japan in two days, and would love to get as much climbing in as possible.
Looking to do anything, boulder, sport, trad , alpine.

I will be traveling for an extended period. So i will not be carrying a rack or rope.
I am planning to be in japan for about 3 weeks.

lets go climbg


mikekim518@hotmail.com Aug 15, 2016
Hi there!

I'm interested in traveling to Japan with a friend and looking for a local contact that may have some gear for sport or bouldering that would be open to showing us around!

We have no set plans yet, so just looking to establish some points of contact.

Please e-mail me at m.okamoto.1992@gmail.com

Cheers! Dec 13, 2016
I'm going to be in Tachikawa on the 8th and 9th of April and am looking for someone to climb with. Mar 24, 2017
SJ Rim
Blacksburg, VA
SJ Rim   Blacksburg, VA
Looking to find a climbing partner (boulder/sport) for a daytrip any day between April 28th - May 3rd. Hit me up!! Apr 18, 2018
Jo Nathan
San Diego, CA
Jo Nathan   San Diego, CA
Looking for a climber partner near the Kanagawa Prefecture over the December 10-14 timeframe? Will lead/follow trad, sport, boulder, ice, anything! Can pay in beer. Nov 28, 2018 · Temporary Report