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Elevation: 294 ft 90 m
GPS: 26.621, 127.9367
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 50,746 total · 255/month
Shared By: Halle835 on Feb 8, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Christian Storms, Christopher Buckley
Warning Access Issue: Do not eat the shiquasha (japanese orange) DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Without a doubt the best climbing on Okinawa. It has a wide range of climbing from 5.8 to 5.13. No matter if you like small sloping crimpers or lage pumpy jugs, this place has it.Weather"It can't rain in every direction"Hiking into lost world after or during rain can be very slippery but the walls tends to stay dry if it has just started raining and has been dry previous day's. But days after heavy rain, the water will seep through the porous limestone.This area tends to take longer to dry compared to zatsun or Cape Hedo

Getting There Suggest change

  • Using 58 (free -- takes longer): Take 58 North towards Nago. Follow directions below starting at ^.*Using the Expressway (fastest way -- 700 yen both ways): From Kadena take the Expressway north towards Nago all the way to the last exit (exit10).*

    ^From there take 58 north until you hit 449 and take a left towards Ocean Expo. Follow 449 past Family Mart on the left and over a small bridge; ocean should be on your left.*Turn right at a sign that says Katsuyama this way. Continue straight through the light and stay on the road until you reach the Katsuyama community center. across from the community center is a gravel parking lot. Park Here.Parking: goo.gl/maps/GgXd5heNeNCreuL… the Parking area head west down the hill that curves down until you reach a
    T in the Road. There should be cement building on ether side. Turn left at the T in the road. Continue down the road and turn right at the first road.
    once you turn right you should have a dry river bed to your left and Shikwasa trees (Japanese oranges)  to your right.
    Continue down the rock road, the river bed should be to your left.
    DO NOT TURN LEFT AT THE FIRST ROAD
    Turn left at the second road where you'll see a sign saying to not hike the mountains on rainy days or after dark, and to not walk around without a shirt on.
    Walk down this road, keeping the riverbed to your left. You'll see a makeshift plastic bridge the farmers use. keep going until you see a sign that says no parking on your right.
    This is the TrailHead.Follow the trail the weaves in and out of the riverbed.After a long uphill hike you'll reach the top of where a waterfall would be if the river was running
    . on the left hand side of the riverbed will be cairns (stacked rocks) go up this trail. This will lead to Middle Ground and the Perch. If you continue up the Riverbed you'll reach Lost World and Lost World North Wall.  Middle Ground hike up the trail at the cairns until you reach the face with
    Zarathustra's crack on it. You are now in Middle Ground.The Perch From  
    Zarathustra's crack Turn left and Hike up the trail with the rock wall on your right side.Lost World and North wall instead of going left at the cairns. continue up the river bed until two large rock faces appear on both sides
    .

73 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mt Katsu (Katsuyama)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 7
Ship Ahoy
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 22
Habu Sake (Snake In A Bottle)
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 8
Rafiki
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
aviator
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
Shingo's Moustache
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
 7
The Complete Package
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 8
Barb's Favorite
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
champagne and reefer
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 8
lifetime friends
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 8
Runaway Goat
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 6
beauty and the beast
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 8
Easy Come, Easy Go (Nankurunaisa)
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ship Ahoy lost world
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Sport
Habu Sake (Snake In A Bottle) lost world
 22
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Sport
Rafiki Lost World - N Wall
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
aviator middle ground
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Shingo's Moustache lost world
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Complete Package lost world
 7
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 Sport
Barb's Favorite middle ground
 8
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
champagne and reefer middle ground
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
lifetime friends middle ground
 8
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Runaway Goat middle ground
 8
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
beauty and the beast middle ground
 6
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Easy Come, Easy Go (Nankuru… lost world
 8
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mt Katsu (Katsuyama) »

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