Okinawa Climbing

Okinawa Climbing Video

The island of Okinawa (within Okinawa Prefecture). 

Japan in general, Okinawa included, tends to have a pretty rough history with access issues. Several areas have been permanently closed due to preventable conflicts. Please be respectful, and if at all possible, reach out to the local climbing communities before hitting up the crags/boulders. We'll try to keep Mountain Project up to date with these restrictions/issues, but we are active on Facebook where you can also find an abundant amount of current information. Please review the local ethics below carefully before starting your climbing adventures here. If you have any questions about any of them, please do not hesitate to ask in the aforementioned Facebook group.

Local Ethics

1. If the route is not on here (Mountain Project) or introduced to you directly by a local climber, assume it is off-limits/closed. In other words, don't climb on bolts if you don't know the name of the route.
2. Do not leave draws or bail biners on bolts as it is known to accelerate corrosion. This goes along with the next item, but if you have no other option, please prioritize your safely before enforcing this on yourself or others. The ocean is VERY near, and we have worked hard to bolt/rebolt all the routes that are very susceptible to corrosion. Please do your part in making everything last as long as it can. There are several ways you can avoid this:
   1. Using a stick-clip to reach the anchors OR to unclip the draws above you (if you are very skilled with the stick-clip)
   2. Using a firefly ( kickstarter.com/projects/te…)
   3. Climb with someone above your level and have them set up a top rope or clean it for you (beer or other remuneration highly recommended)
3. Stay within your skill level. There have been incidents that required rescue via coast guard due to climbers going to areas outside their skill level and resulted in a ban on climbing for service members.
4. DO NOT top rope through the rappel rings (though it is OK to lower through them)
5. Pack out your trash and leave no trace. This is especially true for campfires (which are generally prohibited). Bonus points for cleaning up trash that was already there (trash collection sites are often near entrance signage).
6. Respect the local residents
7. Some of the areas are located on or require you to walk through private property. Please be quiet and respectful and leave the area cleaner than you found it
8. Leave the speakers at home or at least turn them off when others are nearby.
9. Climbing is inherently dangerous. Double check and partner check everything. Find a mentor, climb with people more experienced than you, or hire a guide. One small incident could and has resulted in a ban on climbing in certain areas.
10. Be respectful to everyone involved. We come from many different walks of life, but we all want to climb.

Resources: 

Climbing gyms around Okinawa:

There are multiple indoor gyms, Boulbaka 2, Coral Rock, Koru Piki, Banjat, Look Rock and Dbouldering. All gyms have rental shoes available.

Boulbaka 2:

http://www.boulbaka.com/
(also for reference, this is their slab https://i.imgur.com/jnlPIQ7.gifv)

Formerly there was a Boulbaka 1 and 2, but #1 closed in 2022 so now only the #2 exists. One of the more traditional bouldering gyms in Okinawa. They offer a high set grade of bouldering, plus a good overall range of routes.  Generally well set, with varied styles. They have a moonboard (2017 set) if you're into that sort of thing. Entry is 550yen per hour, plus a bit of tax

Koru Piki: 

https://www.korupiki.com/

Rightfully one of the more popular gyms near Ginowan, has monthly problems and routes are regularly reset. Setting is very good and reasonably consistent in terms of grade, and it can get busy at peak times. Entry is 500yen per hour, or 1500 for all day (tax included)

Coral Rock:

https://www.coralrock-okinawa.com/

The setting here is good if a little confusing (some people claim the setting is weird). Holds tend to be a little less expensive and new (often homemade and slippery, good training) and the routes are set only once per year. An interesting feature is the huge granite blocks outside that the owner imported and has chipped hundreds of granite holds for the indoor walls, as well as the blocks themselves being boulders. The style is mostly old-school, with probably the most crimpy/outdoor style routes of all the Okinawan gyms. Coral Rock also has the only indoor roped climbs in Okinawa. If you are into sport climbing, this is a must (as well as the only option). There is a 1500yen joining fee, added to your entry fee for your first visit. Regular entry is 7000yen for 6 entries (ask about student discount if you're a student)

Banjat:

https://banjat.com/

Physically the largest bouldering gym and the only one in the north, in Nago city. The walls are a lot less dense than the other gyms, so there are less routes despite being larger. Mix of new school and old school setting, and if you're short you'd better get good at dynos. Pretty new, probably the most pleasant to spend a day in.

Look Rock:

https://lookrock.okinawa/

Monthly problems and reasonably often reset, but physically smaller so you can run out of things to climb faster than in other gyms if you go regularly. Setting is a mix of comp/outdoor styles. 500yen per hour.

DBoulder:

https://www.d-b-c.jp/top/okinawa/

The newest gym on the island, a chain that has some gyms on mainland as well. Just south of Naha city and the most modern/competition style of setting with a lot of volumes and more expensive holds. Has a moonboard (2019) and a pretty good training section. Also gives a discount in the neighboring banana juice shop which is nice. Physically pretty small, despite claiming to be the largest on the island (which is actually Banjat, followed by Coral Rock, followed by Boulkaba 2, then Dboulder). Also claims to have the only moonboard on Okinawa for some reason, despite Boulbaka 2 also having one. More expensive than most, prices on the website, plus a 1650yen joining fee if its your first time. 

Places to buy gear (including shoes)
Most gyms in Okinawa have some shoes for purchase, but these are often limited in number and variety (usually to the high end shoes for people that basically live at the gym). If you have big gaijin size feet you might be out of luck also, anything above an EU 40 can be tricky.

Look Rock has the largest shop in a gym , carries Scarpa shoes and maybe some Unparallel, plus chalk/tape/misc stuff. Banjat sells Evolv shoes. Koru Piki sometimes sells Asakusa, plus very lightly used second hand shoes of any brand occasionally. DBoulder sells Unparallel. Otherwise NEOS and Montbell are the two stores known to carry a small range of climbing equipment. 

NEOS:

https://www.outdoor-neos.jp/
Carries a range of brands and has arguably the most extensive range of gear, but that isn't saying much. Last checked they had a couple of Scarpa, 5:10 and Unparallel shoes, but that was a while ago so it may have changed.

Montbell:

https://en.montbell.jp/

Carries only Red Chili shoes, and mostly zeropoint gear. Their selection is a little limited for shoes but for people that like Red Chili, this will be perfect. Also the best stocked for slings/carabiners/etc. Probably would recommend as the first stop for gear (that isn't shoes) on the island.

Otherwise, one can use BananaFingers (https://www.bananafingers.co.uk/) for shoes. They ship here for cheap and they have a very good sizing guide that gives you the correct size shoe, based on other climbing shoes that have fit you before. It's not recommended for your first pair, but it's a good way to get a second. 

Online shop in Japan mainland to avoid international shipping fees, I've used them several times and they've always been excellent:

https://www.edgeandsofa.jp/fs/edgeandsofa/c/all