Elevation: 5,953 ft
GPS: 35.9, 138.627 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 21,896 total · 185/month
Shared By: Eddie Gianelloni on Jan 3, 2011 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Christian Storms

Japan's Yosemite that gave birth to free climbing in Japan

This is Japan's most popular climbing area. Cracks and slab abound in Ogawayama. Hundreds of amazing granite lines and boulders await.

The area began in the 1970s with local climbers and big wall climbing. But what changed this little area in the early 1980s was the free climbing boom. The movement brought about by Yosemite climbers had Japanese climbers exploring cracks as well. In 1981, one of Japan's premiere cracks Ogawayama Layback was born. In 1982, FAs on Imujinkawa and Banana Crack happened as well. In 1986, Japan's first 5.13 was established here as well.

The best source of info for this area in English is ogawayama.com.

In 2020 a guidebook was published for bouldering "Ogawayama Bouldering Area Guide" by Daihold.

Ogawayama is not the easiest place to get around. Here are GPS coordinates for some of the major places.

Tomodachi Iwa / Friend Rock

35.543337, 138.383976, 1607.7,

Saikoro Iwa / Dice Rock

35.543309, 138.384063, 1635.3,

Obasan Iwa / Auntie Rock

35.543168, 138.383832, 1604.3,

Momiji / Maple route

35.543187, 138.383600, 1609.1,

G'day Mate Route

35.543275, 138.383579, 1574.0,

Tajian Route

35.543239, 138.383525, 1571.1,

Hachioji Route

35.543136, 138.383584, 1588.5,

Chichi Iwa Left / Father Rock Left

35.543014, 138.383771, 1634.8,

Ogawayama Story

35.542928, 138.383749, 1639.6,

Mamako Iwa - Mother and Child Rock

35.542955, 138.383548, 1598.5,

Haha Iwa - Mother Rock

35.542812, 138.383593, 1606.0,

Mekake Iwa - Mistress Rock

35.542783, 138.383525, 1595.7,

Chichi Iwa - Father Rock

35.542964, 138.383473, 1581.0,

Paranormal Trail Entrance

35.543361, 138.382544, 1608.9

Bridge  

35.543880, 138.382448, 1637.2

展望台(東屋)

35.544282, 138.382204, 1687.5

River    

35.544508, 138.382335, 1684.8        

Omusubiyama Slab - Riceball Slab

35.544846, 138.381745,

Yane Nihou - Roof Rock Two

35.544504, 138.381464, 1693.0

Soramame Slab - Broad Bean Slab

35.544448, 138.381329, 1682.2

Getting There

From Tokyo take the Chuo expressway to hwy 411 just past Kofu. Then go to hwy 68 and turn east. In Akiyama turn towards the south/ mountains. I do not know the name of this road but it forks right a couple of times and ends up at the Ogawayama campsite.

33 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Ogawayama

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Selection
Trad 7 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Selection Yane Nihou - Roof Roc…
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 7 pitches
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