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Routes in Yane Nihou - Roof Rock Two

Selection T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 7 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 162 total, 4/month
Shared By: Christian Storms on Jul 10, 2014
Admins: Christian Storms

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Description

From Ogawayama.com
An excellent long route that juggles slabs and cracks and finishes in a great position. On the upper pitches, be careful not to knock anything down.

Location

Descend by walking left (facing in) to a narrow gully with a steel cable running down it. Descend this carefully using the cable as a hand rail till the cable then gully run out. Scramble left (facing in) and down across a wooded hillside (there's one nasty step across between a couple of trees, but you can easily protect this if anybody in the party doesn't fancy it) to drop down onto a path at the start of Jet Stream. Follow this path left (facing out) under Yane Nihou's main face back to the bottom of the route. Be careful, because, if you miss the path that cuts in, you'll end up back down on the Kamoshika Hiking Course (eventually).
Alternatively, you can ab down the front of Yane Nihou, which I don't recommend unless you know where you're going.
Or, if you don't need to get to the bottom of Yane Nihou, you can follow a path right (facing in) off the top and back down a gully to the Panorama Hiking Course between Yane Ippou and Omusubiyama Slab. The same cable that runs left off the top also runs right along this path and down the gully (the path is very narrow for one short section, but keep the faith!). The gully itself requires a short downclimb.

Protection

Pitch 1. 5.8 The crack start of Diamond Slab. Belay at the top of the crack.
Pitch 2. 5.8 The slab section of Diamond Slab. If there are more than 2 in your party, you might want to tie someone to the twin trees on a narrow ledge right of the chain.
Pitch 3. 5.5 Gain the ledge on the right, if you haven't already, and from its right edge, traverse a tree root into a chimney. Back-and-foot the easy chimney (behind the chockstone) to good ledges and scramble up to an excellent picnic spot on the col.
Pitch 4. 5.8 Above the ledges, a short slab protected by two bolts leads to a bottomless corner/flake. Gain the bolts from the short corner and wide crack below and right or the tree below and left (the tree's more fun), then smear up to the corner/flake. Climb this on generally good holds and gear to belay in a good position on small trees and gear on narrow ledges at the top of the flake. If your party is nervous and/or numerous, it might be better to keep going - as long as the drag is manageable.
Pitch 5. 5.7 Follow the ledges up and left to an overlap, then pull back right across a slab to a corner. Up this to belay on a big tree in a recess. It is possible to escape to the top through here. But you don't want to do that.
Pitch 6. 5.7 Drop down to real rock again, then traverse airily left to belay in a wonderful position at the foot of a big Y-shaped crack.
Pitch 7. 5.8 Climb the crack via its left fork to the top. The right fork is easier but thrutchier.

Photos

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