Avg: 3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 7 pitches, Grade II|
|Page Views:||742 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Christian Storms on Jul 10, 2014|
An excellent long route that juggles slabs and cracks and finishes in a great position. On the upper pitches, be careful not to knock anything down.
Alternatively, you can ab down the front of Yane Nihou, which I don't recommend unless you know where you're going.
Or, if you don't need to get to the bottom of Yane Nihou, you can follow a path right (facing in) off the top and back down a gully to the Panorama Hiking Course between Yane Ippou and Omusubiyama Slab. The same cable that runs left off the top also runs right along this path and down the gully (the path is very narrow for one short section, but keep the faith!). The gully itself requires a short downclimb.
Pitch 2. 5.8 The slab section of Diamond Slab. If there are more than 2 in your party, you might want to tie someone to the twin trees on a narrow ledge right of the chain.
Pitch 3. 5.5 Gain the ledge on the right, if you haven't already, and from its right edge, traverse a tree root into a chimney. Back-and-foot the easy chimney (behind the chockstone) to good ledges and scramble up to an excellent picnic spot on the col.
Pitch 4. 5.8 Above the ledges, a short slab protected by two bolts leads to a bottomless corner/flake. Gain the bolts from the short corner and wide crack below and right or the tree below and left (the tree's more fun), then smear up to the corner/flake. Climb this on generally good holds and gear to belay in a good position on small trees and gear on narrow ledges at the top of the flake. If your party is nervous and/or numerous, it might be better to keep going - as long as the drag is manageable.
Pitch 5. 5.7 Follow the ledges up and left to an overlap, then pull back right across a slab to a corner. Up this to belay on a big tree in a recess. It is possible to escape to the top through here. But you don't want to do that.
Pitch 6. 5.7 Drop down to real rock again, then traverse airily left to belay in a wonderful position at the foot of a big Y-shaped crack.
Pitch 7. 5.8 Climb the crack via its left fork to the top. The right fork is easier but thrutchier.