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Areas in Sam's Throne

East Main Bluff 43 / 13 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 52
Northern Exposure 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Outback, The 25 / 18 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 36
Southern Cross Wall 0 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Throne, The 40 / 9 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 47
West Main Bluff 26 / 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 27
Elevation: 1,965 ft
GPS: 35.875, -93.048 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Erik Pohlman on Dec 24, 2006
Admins: TylerKC

Description

Arkansas' true original crag, with hard rooted trad ethics still pertaining to the local mindset this very day. Sam's throne boasts most of the states best traditional style routes as well as a few sport pitches. There are not many sport lines located here at Sam's, but the ones that do exist are of great quality.


Given that there is free camping and easy access from the top of the bluffs at Sam's it does tend to get quite crowded on weekends, and a whole variety of usergroups participate in recreation here. With that in mind do your best to be a steward of the sport and keep climbing friendly at Arkansas' classic crag.

The locals are very particular about their ethics. If you are looking to bolt a line, ASK THE LOCALS IF IT IS AN ESTABLISHED LINE FIRST!!!


PLEASE NOTE!!!
It is NOT considered proper to hang permanent draws or chains in this area, especially on already established climbs. It is also STRONGLY discouraged on new lines that go up.



Also, a few other practices should be observed. If a route doesn't have a bolted anchor, try to walk over to one that does or leave slings on the tree you rap on to be picked up on your way out. Also, bury your doody deep and pack out the TP or burn it carefully. Make sure it is completely out.

The rock tends to be well featured and pretty bomber. Many of the routes feature a roof halfway up, followed by nicely featured vertical faces above.

The fall is by far the best time of year to climb here, because of the trees. Good climbing can be found any time of year, though.

Getting There

This area is just up the hill from Mt. Judea, AR. The best thing would be to Mapquest that city. If coming from the north, once there, continue following AR-123 south, past a sharp left turn at a gas station. Take the next right, which is still 123. Follow it up about 4-5 miles. Sam's Throne will be on the right and is marked by a new wooden sign.

REFER TO: Classic Rock Climbs No. 22: Sam's Throne, Arkansas, by Clay Frisbee. It's out of print, so borrow one or go by his gym in Springfield, MO.

Also, this fall look for a new guide on the area by Clay Frisbie. For the most up-to-date info on this, check out www.bostonmountainpress.com

165 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sam's Throne

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Last Chance
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Boston Rag
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Diagonal Crack
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Poison Ivy
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slam Dance
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Albino Rhino
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Silverfish
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Patio Direct
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Razorback Roof
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
White Trash
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Diet Pepsi
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Job 3:25
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Windy Armbuster
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dead Dog
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Arkansas Reality
Trad
Last Chance Outback > Warrior Wall & Last Chance Wall 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Boston Rag Throne > White Trash Wall 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Diagonal Crack Throne > White Trash Wall 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Poison Ivy Throne > Poison Ivy Wall 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Slam Dance E Main Bluff > Prow & Reality Wall 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Albino Rhino Throne > S Side & Albino Rhino Wall 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Silverfish Outback > Seed Wall 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Patio Direct Throne > Plaque Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Razorback Roof W Main Bluff > Arachnophobia, Dark Side, & Inte… 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
White Trash Throne > White Trash Wall 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Diet Pepsi W Main Bluff > Arachnophobia, Dark Side, & Inte… 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Job 3:25 E Main Bluff > Chickenhead Wall 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Windy Armbuster E Main Bluff > Chickenhead Wall 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad
Dead Dog E Main Bluff > Dead Dog & Energamata Walls 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Arkansas Reality E Main Bluff > Prow & Reality Wall 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
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Carol Fittell
Kansas City, MO
Carol Fittell   Kansas City, MO
The primitive camping just got better; there are now pit toilets at Sam's Throne! Thank you Forest Service! Feb 29, 2012
Joe M
Beckley, wv
Joe M   Beckley, wv
There is AWESOME primitive camping right at the top of the cliffline... and its FREE!! Aug 12, 2007

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