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Elevation: 1,965 ft 599 m
GPS: 35.87509, -93.04751
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Shared By: Erik Pohlman on Dec 24, 2006
Admins: Tyler KC, JD Borgeson

Description Suggest change

Arkansas' true original crag, with hard rooted trad ethics still pertaining to the local mindset this very day. Sam's throne boasts most of the states best traditional style routes as well as a few sport pitches. There are not many sport lines located here at Sam's, but the ones that do exist are of great quality.

Given that there is free camping and easy access from the top of the bluffs at Sam's it does tend to get quite crowded on weekends, and a whole variety of usergroups participate in recreation here. With that in mind do your best to be a steward of the sport and keep climbing friendly at Arkansas' classic crag.

The locals are very particular about their ethics. If you are looking to bolt a line, ASK THE LOCALS IF IT IS AN ESTABLISHED LINE FIRST!!!

PLEASE NOTE!!!

It is NOT considered proper to hang permanent draws or chains in this area, especially on already established climbs. It is also STRONGLY discouraged on new lines that go up.

Also, a few other practices should be observed. If a route doesn't have a bolted anchor, try to walk over to one that does or leave slings on the tree you rap on to be picked up on your way out. Also, bury your doody deep and pack out the TP or burn it carefully. Make sure it is completely out.

The rock tends to be well featured and pretty bomber. Many of the routes feature a roof halfway up, followed by nicely featured vertical faces above.

The fall is by far the best time of year to climb here, because of the trees. Good climbing can be found any time of year, though.

The crags are organized numerically from north to south, which is climbers left to climbers right.  The Throne is the only area that is not part of the continuous bluffline.

Getting There Suggest change

This area is just up the hill from Mt. Judea, AR. The best thing would be to Mapquest that city. If coming from the north, once there, continue following AR-123 south, past a sharp left turn at a gas station. Take the next right, which is still 123. Follow it up about 4-5 miles. Sam's Throne will be on the right and is marked by a new wooden sign.

REFER TO: Classic Rock Climbs No. 22: Sam's Throne, Arkansas, by Clay Frisbee. It's out of print, so borrow one or go by his gym in Springfield, MO.

Also, this fall look for a new guide on the area by Clay Frisbie. For the most up-to-date info on this, check out bostonmountainpress.com

256 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sam's Throne

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V8 7B
 7
Matter of Time
Boulder
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 193
Poison Ivy
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 61
Silverfish
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 42
Diet Pepsi
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 33
The Natural
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 35
Inherit the Wind
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 58
Job 3:25 (aka No Fear)
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 33
Spank Me
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 37
Windy Armbuster
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 18
Coup D'etat
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 108
Dead Dog
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 31
Ode to a Portly Man
Trad, Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 29
Arkansas Reality
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 14
SuperNatural
Trad
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a R
 5
Bereavement (Formerly "Dreadlock…
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Matter of Time Point Boulders > Matter of Time Boulder
 7
V8 7B Boulder
Poison Ivy 7. The Throne > Poison Ivy Wall
 193
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Silverfish 2. The Outback > Seed Wall
 61
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Diet Pepsi 3. W Main Bluff > Arachnophobia, Dark S…
 42
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The Natural 4. E Main Bluff > Prow & Reality Wall
 33
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad
Inherit the Wind 4. E Main Bluff > Dead Dog & Energamata…
 35
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Job 3:25 (aka No Fear) 4. E Main Bluff > Chickenhead Wall
 58
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Spank Me 2. The Outback > Outback Wall
 33
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Windy Armbuster 4. E Main Bluff > Chickenhead Wall
 37
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad
Coup D'etat 3. W Main Bluff > Coup D'etat Wall
 18
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Dead Dog 4. E Main Bluff > Dead Dog & Energamata…
 108
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Ode to a Portly Man 3. W Main Bluff > Coup D'etat Wall
 31
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Arkansas Reality 4. E Main Bluff > Prow & Reality Wall
 29
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
SuperNatural 4. E Main Bluff > Prow & Reality Wall
 14
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Bereavement (Formerly "Drea… 7. The Throne > Plaque Wall
 5
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a R Trad
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