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Routes in The Plaque Wall

Bereavement (Formerly "Dreadlock Rasta") T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a R
Doing the Ritz T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Edge of Flight T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Instant Karma T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Patio Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reintarnation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: FA: Pat Meek 80's, FFA: Scott Fitzgerald 1/2012
Page Views: 904 total, 18/month
Shared By: Scott Fitzgerald on Oct 16, 2013
Admins: TylerKC

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Description

Considered to be one of the most beautiful walls in Arkansas. This route follows the most obvious weakness on the left center of the wall with excellent movement the entire way. Start as for Instant Karma then go right through dihedral, clip a fixed pin, head out right onto the face through a finger crack, horizontals, and finish with a seam using the small crimps on each side up to a small dihedral and roof. One last long move to good ledges and the glorious finish. Climbs more like a face than a crack. 3 distinct boulder problems and marginal rests getting harder as you go. This route was renamed Bereavement on the free ascent due to the first ascensionist's grandfather passing away that week. It also fits due to it being on the plaque wall.

Location

Left center of Plaque Wall
Start as for Instant Karma in right facing flake.

Protection

Fixed old pins and gear. Glue in anchors below lip to save the tree living atop bare rock atop the climb. One fixed pin near bottom, 3 cams in horizontals, and RURPs in the top crux. FFA done without use of pins or rurps. Big fall potential near top.

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