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Elevation: 1,868 ft
GPS: 35.87522, -93.04864
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 37,328 total · 177/month
Shared By: Erik Pohlman on Dec 26, 2006
Admins: Tyler KC, JD Borgeson

Description Suggest change

This area extends from the Dog Walkdown on the left (seen from the base) to the corner where the East and West Bluffs meet, near the Chickenhead Wall.

Since it faces west, this area is good for summer mornings and afternoons during the cooler times of year. The rock is great, with maybe a little more lichen than that on the East Main Bluff.

The order of the areas from the Dog Walkdown to the intersection with the East Main Bluff is:
The Squeeze Block
Titanic Wall
Quarter Dome
Arachnophobia Wall
The Dark Side Wall
International Walls
Coup D'etat Wall

Getting There Suggest change

The most popular access is via the Dog Walkdown. This is found by using a trail heading downhill about 1/3 of the way between the entrance to the parking lot and the circle drive. Take a left at the bottom.

Another way to access the cliff is by rapping the descent line between the Chickenhead Wall and the Wasp.

The West Main Bluff is the bluff line between these two access points.

35 Total Climbs

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Location: 3. West Main Bluff Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at West Main Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
Arachnophobia
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 19
The Couch Potato
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 12
Reptilian
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 41
Diet Pepsi
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 53
Razorback Roof
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 47
Battle of the Bulge
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Burning Bridges
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Cassi's Nightmare
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 18
Coup D'etat
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
Ophidiphobia
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 30
Ode to a Portly Man
Trad, Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 6
Team International
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
Black Thunder
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 7
Papillion
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Arachnophobia Arachnophobia, Dark S…
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Couch Potato Arachnophobia, Dark S…
 19
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Reptilian Coup D'etat Wall
 12
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Diet Pepsi Arachnophobia, Dark S…
 41
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Razorback Roof Arachnophobia, Dark S…
 53
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Battle of the Bulge Coup D'etat Wall
 47
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Burning Bridges Arachnophobia, Dark S…
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Cassi's Nightmare Coup D'etat Wall
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Coup D'etat Coup D'etat Wall
 18
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Ophidiphobia Arachnophobia, Dark S…
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Ode to a Portly Man Coup D'etat Wall
 30
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Team International Arachnophobia, Dark S…
 6
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Black Thunder Squeeze Block & Titan…
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Papillion Coup D'etat Wall
 7
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in West Main Bluff »

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