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Elevation: 1,868 ft 569 m
GPS: 35.87522, -93.04864
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Erik Pohlman on Dec 26, 2006
Admins: Tyler KC, JD Borgeson
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Description Suggest change

This area extends from the Dog Walkdown on the left (seen from the base) to the corner where the East and West Bluffs meet, near the Chickenhead Wall.

Since it faces west, this area is good for summer mornings and afternoons during the cooler times of year. The rock is great, with maybe a little more lichen than that on the East Main Bluff.

The order of the areas from the Dog Walkdown to the intersection with the East Main Bluff is:
The Squeeze Block
Titanic Wall
Quarter Dome
Arachnophobia Wall
The Dark Side Wall
International Walls
Coup D'etat Wall

Getting There Suggest change

The most popular access is via the Dog Walkdown. This is found by using a trail heading downhill about 1/3 of the way between the entrance to the parking lot and the circle drive. Take a left at the bottom.

Another way to access the cliff is by rapping the descent line between the Chickenhead Wall and the Wasp.

The West Main Bluff is the bluff line between these two access points.

35 Total Climbs

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Location: 3. West Main Bluff Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at West Main Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 22
● The Couch Potato
Trad
Arachnophobia, Dark S…
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 14
● Reptilian
Trad
Coup D'etat Wall
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 45
● Diet Pepsi
Trad
Arachnophobia, Dark S…
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 56
● Razorback Roof
Trad
Arachnophobia, Dark S…
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 53
● Battle of the Bulge
Trad
Coup D'etat Wall
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 7
● Burning Bridges
Trad
Arachnophobia, Dark S…
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
● Cassi's Nightmare
Trad
Coup D'etat Wall
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 18
● Coup D'etat
Trad
Coup D'etat Wall
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 11
● 100 Grand
Sport
Coup D'etat Wall
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
● Ophidiphobia
Trad
Arachnophobia, Dark S…
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 34
● Ode to a Portly Man
Trad, Sport
Coup D'etat Wall
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 6
● Team International
Trad
Arachnophobia, Dark S…
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
 5
● Titanic
Trad
Squeeze Block & Titan…
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
● Black Thunder
Sport
Squeeze Block & Titan…
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 7
● Papillion
Sport
Coup D'etat Wall
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● The Couch Potato Arachnophobia, Dark S…
 22
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Reptilian Coup D'etat Wall
 14
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Diet Pepsi Arachnophobia, Dark S…
 45
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
● Razorback Roof Arachnophobia, Dark S…
 56
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
● Battle of the Bulge Coup D'etat Wall
 53
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● Burning Bridges Arachnophobia, Dark S…
 7
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● Cassi's Nightmare Coup D'etat Wall
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Coup D'etat Coup D'etat Wall
 18
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
● 100 Grand Coup D'etat Wall
 11
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Ophidiphobia Arachnophobia, Dark S…
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
● Ode to a Portly Man Coup D'etat Wall
 34
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport
● Team International Arachnophobia, Dark S…
 6
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
● Titanic Squeeze Block & Titan…
 5
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R Trad
● Black Thunder Squeeze Block & Titan…
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Papillion Coup D'etat Wall
 7
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in West Main Bluff »

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Lena Morrison-Heath heading up the endless line of sloper crimps on this gem of a route.
Lena Morrison-Heath heading up the endless line…
 6

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