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Elevation: 1,786 ft
GPS: 35.8727, -93.04975
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 19,741 total · 94/month
Shared By: Erik Pohlman on Dec 26, 2006
Admins: Tyler KC, JD Borgeson

Description Suggest change

This is the low-angled slab with jugs all over behind the massive boulder. This is often used as a walkout area by confident climbers. This area also covers routes extending past the large cave and all the way to the Reality Wall.

Getting There Suggest change

The best way to approach the Chickenhead Wall is from above. At the entrance to the parking lot, go left and through the gate. At the end of the gravel drive, there is a circle drive. Find the trail heading in the same general direction as the road. It leads to a clearing where the East and West Main Bluffs converge.

The rap is located to the right, above the West Main Bluff. To access it, you have to drop down about 5 feet to a ledge where the bolts are located.

Once at the bottom, hike left around the corner and into the tunnel area between the Chickenhead Wall and the huge boulder.

18 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Chickenhead Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 19
Easy Out
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 15
Shadrach
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Glorious
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 13
Roosevelt
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
Cally's Flakes
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 16
Cat on a Hot Tin Roof
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 56
Job 3:25 (aka No Fear)
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 35
Windy Armbuster
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Easy Out
 19
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Shadrach
 15
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Glorious
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Roosevelt
 13
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Cally's Flakes
 7
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Cat on a Hot Tin Roof
 16
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Job 3:25 (aka No Fear)
 56
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Windy Armbuster
 35
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad
More Classic Climbs in Chickenhead Wall »

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