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Areas in East Main Bluff

Chickenhead Wall 11 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 12
Dawn Wall 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Dead Dog & Energamata Walls 13 / 11 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21
Hero Maker Wall 5 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Prow & Reality Wall, The 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13

Description

The East Main Bluff consists of all the lines from the Hero Maker Wall, by the road, to the Chickenhead Wall, down by the Throne, where the bluff line takes a sharp turn to become the West Main Bluff.

This area faces roughly east, so it has some pretty good climbing in cooler weather, especially fall, but all seasons are good. The rock is the same great sandstone that is found all over this area.

The order of the areas from left to right as seen from the bottom of the climbs is:
Chickenhead Wall
The Prow
Reality Wall
Dead Dog Wall
Energemata Wall
Fraggle Rock Wall
Too Big to Finger Wall
Reader's Digest Wall
Hero Maker Wall

Getting There

From the parking lot, hike down the road to the left, ending in a a circle drive. From there, head down a trail towards the east, ending on top of the Chickenhead Wall.

From here, either rap the descent near The Wasp on the West Main Bluff or continue along the top of the East Main Bluff to the Catacomb Walkdown, which involves some downclimbing in a chimney.

55 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at East Main Bluff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 25
Slam Dance
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 27
Smooth Operator
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 3
Imminent Domain
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
The Natural
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 3
Sport Route X Next to Dead Dog
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 25
Job 3:25
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 12
Cat on a Hot Tin Roof
Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 3
Whiff of a Dead Dog
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 15
Windy Armbuster
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 39
Dead Dog
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 15
Arkansas Reality
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Second Adam
Sport 2 pitches
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 4
SuperNatural
Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 6
Flying Dog
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 4
Dawn of the Dead
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Slam Dance Prow & Reality Wall
 25
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Smooth Operator Prow & Reality Wall
 27
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Imminent Domain Prow & Reality Wall
 3
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad
The Natural Prow & Reality Wall
 14
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Sport Route X Next to Dead Dog Dead Dog & Energamata…
 3
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Job 3:25 Chickenhead Wall
 25
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Cat on a Hot Tin Roof Chickenhead Wall
 12
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Whiff of a Dead Dog Dead Dog & Energamata…
 3
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad, TR
Windy Armbuster Chickenhead Wall
 15
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad
Dead Dog Dead Dog & Energamata…
 39
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Arkansas Reality Prow & Reality Wall
 15
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Second Adam Dead Dog & Energamata…
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport 2 pitches
SuperNatural Prow & Reality Wall
 4
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
Flying Dog Dead Dog & Energamata…
 6
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Dawn of the Dead Dawn Wall
 4
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in East Main Bluff »

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