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Arkansas Reality
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Type: | Trad, 55 ft |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 5,029 total · 37/month |
Shared By: | Erik Pohlman on Apr 6, 2007 |
Admins: | TylerKC |
Description
Climb low angled dihedral and fingercrack to the base of the 12 foot roof crack. Pull through on jams and jugs over the lip and angle right on the chickenheads above to the anchors. You can continue to the top of the cliff in another easy pitch or just rap.
Hermann, MO
Salt Lake City, UT
I also thought that getting into the roof was surprising difficult. The lower finger crack is covered in lichen and sand. All the feet are very sloppy. Luckily I had great gear, a .4 and .5, because I fell twice getting into the roof.
I can climb 5.10 hands at the creek. That doesn't mean I was ready for this route! May 12, 2014
Salt Lake City, UT
A few potentially helpful notes: this thing is a PITA to clean, so it really helps to have a partner that can follow it. On previous attempts I placed four pieces in the roof. On the redpoint, I skipped the final placement. I'm not sure I could have placed again and finished. The fall is clean and safe. Lastly, (This advice is stolen from Jeremy Collins. He saw me floundering and offered some beta.) treat it like a face climb. I definitely used the crack, but i also took advantage of the bomber jugs and feet around the crack. That helped. Mar 18, 2016
jay meyers did it using that beta OS. Nov 4, 2016