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Routes in The Prow & Reality Wall

Air to the Throne T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Arkansas Reality T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Backrub T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bryes Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chickens in Space T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Imminent Domain T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Natural, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sickle, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Slam Dance T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sliders T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Smooth Operator T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
SuperNatural T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unkown 5.9 (first route after catacombs down approach) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,682 total, 20/month
Shared By: Erik Pohlman on Jan 5, 2007
Admins: TylerKC

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

Climb the awesome 20 foot dihedral handcrack to a ledge. There, turn around and climb up into and through the squeeze chimney. Belay on trees above. Awesome rock.

You can also continue up and right instead of turning around at the ledge, but it's a little chossy and not as fun, in my opinion.

Location

At the far left end of the Reality Wall, hike to the back of the cave on the right side of the thumb. Start in the handcrack in the right corner.

Protection

Gear to 3.5". Rap off trees into the chimney or hike to a walkdown.

Photos

You can get to the anchors of 'sliders' pretty easily after topping this thing out, and you don't have to rap from a tree. Apr 11, 2017
Tom Pittman
Juneau, AK
 
Tom Pittman   Juneau, AK
 
My partner and I left our packs at the top of the wall racked up and then took the class 4 scramble down to the route. The crack is cuped hands. The transition move from the ledge after the crack into the chimney is amazing, gymnastic and not straight forward. This route is an absurd adventure. Sep 20, 2015
Ed Wade
Hermann, MO
 
Ed Wade   Hermann, MO
 
No. Not a good route to set a toprope on. Apr 25, 2014
I'm looking into bringing a group of beginners out here for most of their first times climbing. I was just going to set up a toprope and hopefully get them on a fairly long, fairly easy route. Would this be a good one for that? Mar 7, 2014
Ed Wade
Hermann, MO
 
Ed Wade   Hermann, MO
 
You really don't want to rap back down the route. Leave your packs on the outside of the cave, climb the route, and then rap from the big pine which is left of Arkansas Reality. This way you don't have to scramble back up in the cave when your'e done. A headlamp might be a good idea to have on this climb also. There maybe some loose rock in the chimney section so the belayer might think about wearing a helmet. Apr 9, 2013