Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,145 total · 21/month
Shared By: Erik Pohlman on Jan 5, 2007
Admins: TylerKC

You & This Route

26 Opinions

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Climb the awesome 20 foot dihedral handcrack to a ledge. There, turn around and climb up into and through the squeeze chimney. Belay on trees above. Awesome rock.

You can also continue up and right instead of turning around at the ledge, but it's a little chossy and not as fun, in my opinion.


At the far left end of the Reality Wall, hike to the back of the cave on the right side of the thumb. Start in the handcrack in the right corner.


Gear to 3.5". Rap off trees into the chimney or hike to a walkdown.


Ed Wade
Hermann, MO
Ed Wade   Hermann, MO
You really don't want to rap back down the route. Leave your packs on the outside of the cave, climb the route, and then rap from the big pine which is left of Arkansas Reality. This way you don't have to scramble back up in the cave when your'e done. A headlamp might be a good idea to have on this climb also. There maybe some loose rock in the chimney section so the belayer might think about wearing a helmet. Apr 9, 2013
I'm looking into bringing a group of beginners out here for most of their first times climbing. I was just going to set up a toprope and hopefully get them on a fairly long, fairly easy route. Would this be a good one for that? Mar 7, 2014
Ed Wade
Hermann, MO
Ed Wade   Hermann, MO
No. Not a good route to set a toprope on. Apr 25, 2014
Tom Pittman
Juneau, AK
Tom Pittman   Juneau, AK
My partner and I left our packs at the top of the wall racked up and then took the class 4 scramble down to the route. The crack is cuped hands. The transition move from the ledge after the crack into the chimney is amazing, gymnastic and not straight forward. This route is an absurd adventure. Sep 20, 2015
JD Borgeson
Little Rock, AR
JD Borgeson   Little Rock, AR
You can get to the anchors of 'sliders' pretty easily after topping this thing out, and you don't have to rap from a tree. Apr 11, 2017