All Locations > Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Northern Gorge > Muscle Beach

Main Wall Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Main Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bloody Fingers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Carnivorous T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Casual Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Close Encounters with a Wench T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Coup De Graus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Grand Illusion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Jaws T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Mama Told Me Not To Come T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Muscle Shoals T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Punch Myself T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Rock Rash T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Rocket Man T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Surfin' With Grizz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	When Gravity Fails T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Woman Trouble T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Elevation:	1,149 ft	350 m
GPS:	37.87506, -83.654 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Chris Chaney on Oct 13, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. Details

fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…

Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.

Description

The Main Wall is where all the roped climbing exists. It is mostly south facing with some west facing rock.

Getting There

Due to the USFS stream rehab project the original approach to Muscle Beach has been disrupted. A new, alternate approach is better and shorter.

From the camping area on the right side of 9b (across from the port-a-johns) keep driving to the next (narrow) pull off on the right. There is a popular camping spot between the road and the creek at this pull off. The best approach for Minas Tirith is the logging road on the left (west) side of the road.

To get to Muscle Beach cross the creek in this area and hike straight up the hill through some low boulders until you hit an old, flat logging road. Take it to the left (north) until the first switchback and take it back to the right. When the road levels off and there are some large boulders to your left, continue along the logging road for a few more steps and locate a faint trail on the left and follow it up to the SW corner of the main cliff in the vicinity of Close Encounters With a Wench, or continue on the logging road around to the south slopes below the main cliff and wander up wherever.

15 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 24 ● Mama Told Me Not To Come Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 19 ● Grand Illusion Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 7 ● Carnivorous Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 19 ● Rocket Man Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 23 ● Muscle Shoals Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c 17 ● When Gravity Fails Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 9 ● Rock Rash Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 6 ● Close Encounters with a Wench Trad