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Routes in Main Wall

Bloody Fingers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Carnivorous T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Casual Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Close Encounters with a Wench T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grand Illusion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mama Told Me Not To Come T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Muscle Shoals T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Punch Myself T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rock Rash T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rocket Man T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Surfin' With Grizz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
When Gravity Fails T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Woman Trouble T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Martin Hackworth, George Robinson, 1982
Page Views: 670 total, 5/month
Shared By: Chris Chaney on Oct 31, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

This is a thin crack in an obtuse dihedral. You could almost call it a flake, but it is actually more of a dihedral. The rock is a fantastic orange color and if you do this route in the fall you'll get the added benefit of brilliant red leaves on the vines that cover the face to the right.

Climb the crack, using the crack on the face at your own risk, to a ledge. There is a nice variation of moves on this route.

The cons are some sand up high and softer rock than normal. The route seems to protect best with cams, passive gear is trickier. The top anchor situation isn't ideal, you have to build a gear anchor off to the left and try to create a directional for the second. It's really hard to set this route up as a slingshot TR.

Location

Follow the wall right from the main corner past Surfin' With Grizz. Look for an obtuse, right facing dihedral in orange rock. There is a friable splitter crack on the face to the right.

Protection

Smaller gear mostly, with a piece or two hand sized or bigger. TCUs and small cams work best.

No fixed anchor at the top. Don't count on using trees.

Photos

Jordan K
Ohio
 
Jordan K   Ohio
 
This DOES have fixed anchors now (added 9/13). Great fun climb! Jul 18, 2014