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Routes in Main Wall

Bloody Fingers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Carnivorous T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Casual Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Close Encounters with a Wench T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grand Illusion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mama Told Me Not To Come T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Muscle Shoals T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Punch Myself T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rock Rash T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rocket Man T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Surfin' With Grizz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
When Gravity Fails T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Woman Trouble T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Martin Hackworth, Joe Pulliam (1983)
Page Views: 344 total · 14/month
Shared By: Backwards Eric on Apr 21, 2016
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description [Edit]

Starting off a large boulder under a roof, work your way above the roof crack to where it's more vertical. Arm bar, chicken wing, fist jam your way up. There are rap anchors on a ledge off to the climbers left, or you can continue climbing to the top and anchor off some trees. Finish is easier but still holds some interest.

Location [Edit]

Above the huge boulder that is mostly covered by a roof.

Protection [Edit]

You can plug a #3 C4 into the roof crack right off the boulder to protect the very beginning. After that, #2(2),#3,#3.5,#4(2). Webbing or cord for building an anchor off trees at the top.

Photos

The rap anchors are about 15' left, so don't expect to TR off them. a gear anchor can be built (C4 #'s 2, 1, and a .4 worked for me) I did not go to the top so I am not sure if you can belay well up there. If you build an anchor at the first ledge, you can protect the walk over to the tree (with slings and a rap ring on it) by just belaying the second over then putting the other climber on belay from over there. I would use that and not the "rap rings" the book states as they have no actual rings. Feb 20, 2017

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