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Routes in Main Wall

Bloody Fingers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Carnivorous T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Casual Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Close Encounters with a Wench T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grand Illusion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mama Told Me Not To Come T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Muscle Shoals T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Punch Myself T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rock Rash T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rocket Man T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Surfin' With Grizz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
When Gravity Fails T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Woman Trouble T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Martin Hackworth, Joe Pulliam (1983)
Page Views: 282 total, 14/month
Shared By: Backwards Eric on Apr 21, 2016
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

Starting off a large boulder under a roof, work your way above the roof crack to where it's more vertical. Arm bar, chicken wing, fist jam your way up. There are rap anchors on a ledge off to the climbers left, or you can continue climbing to the top and anchor off some trees. Finish is easier but still holds some interest.

Location

Above the huge boulder that is mostly covered by a roof.

Protection

You can plug a #3 C4 into the roof crack right off the boulder to protect the very beginning. After that, #2(2),#3,#3.5,#4(2). Webbing or cord for building an anchor off trees at the top.

Photos

The rap anchors are about 15' left, so don't expect to TR off them. a gear anchor can be built (C4 #'s 2, 1, and a .4 worked for me) I did not go to the top so I am not sure if you can belay well up there. If you build an anchor at the first ledge, you can protect the walk over to the tree (with slings and a rap ring on it) by just belaying the second over then putting the other climber on belay from over there. I would use that and not the "rap rings" the book states as they have no actual rings. Feb 20, 2017