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Routes in Main Wall

Bloody Fingers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Carnivorous T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Casual Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Close Encounters with a Wench T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grand Illusion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mama Told Me Not To Come T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Muscle Shoals T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Punch Myself T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rock Rash T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rocket Man T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Surfin' With Grizz T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
When Gravity Fails T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Woman Trouble T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Martin Hackworth, Ron Snider - 1982
Page Views: 1,979 total · 17/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 21, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

A tough little devil that will knock you around a bit if you are new to OW but it protects well with large cams... Basically hop up in there and an heel-toe, grunt, knee-jam, chicken wing and maybe bleed to the top... Or if you are an off-width ace use this as a fun warm up...

Location

From where the trail gets to the cliff walk right a short way till you see this squeeze chimney/OW under a roof with a hard finger crack a few feet to its right...

Protection

i used a #6 and two #4.5 camalots... that worked well... bolted anchor at the top...

Photos

David Aguasca!
New York
  5.9+
David Aguasca!   New York
  5.9+
Damn! I was going to add this one.

As for gear, I'd recommend 2 #6s, if you have them, and a .75 for the pod before the crux. If you don't have 2 #6s, a 5 works pretty well if you place it deep. Mar 23, 2009

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