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Routes in Main Wall

Bloody Fingers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Carnivorous T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Casual Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Close Encounters with a Wench T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Grand Illusion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mama Told Me Not To Come T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Muscle Shoals T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Punch Myself T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rock Rash T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rocket Man T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Surfin' With Grizz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
When Gravity Fails T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Woman Trouble T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 110 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Martin Hackworth, Grant Stephens, 1983
Page Views: 1,717 total · 12/month
Shared By: Chris Chaney on Oct 31, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route

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In my opinion this is the most striking line at Muscle Beach. You can't miss this splitter fist crack and offwidth.

It starts out as a hand crack, quickly widens and never stops. By the time you get to the ledge you will need a skin (or tape) transplant and it may be easier just to bail and skip the upper "pitch." It looks hard for the grade anyway!


From the main corner, follow the cliffline right, around a corner and past a very wide dihedral (Last Wave 5.7). Rocket Man is the first of two splitter cracks on the wall past the dihedral.


Don't bother with anything smaller than a #2 camalot. Belay and rappel from a tree on the ledge (or the summit if you go on).


Let me finish the description for you.b Bring some long slings and slings and make this long pitch a memorable one. As your sitting on the ledge(trust me you'll be sitting) take a glance up into the void and start pondering your next moves. Step up into the flaring chimney and stem your way to the roof, lob in some gear and a long sling and stem as far as you can before you have to do powerful ab twisting stem switch to gain the massive flaring upper crack. Put in another big piece and chicken wing or(developed on this climb)scissor wing your way up to a well needed flaring hand jam and you're there. Thats what i would call the hardest 8 in the Red Apr 13, 2009

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