GPS: 34.002, -116.059 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 3,947 total · 26/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Aug 19, 2006 with updates from Matt Hagny
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

The Wedge is a prominent pinnacle just northwest of the paved road (park at pullout with display, see pic in Top Secret Tower approach -- pullout is about halfway between Jumbo Rocks campground and Live Oak Picnic area / Split Rocks intersection, directly across from Pope's Hat). Hike thru a notch in the first formations and aim for the big wedge feature atop the next wall -- routes are on this southeast-facing wall.  This area was the scene of some early JT climbing (1950s). The rock is very coarse. Well protected from north winds and quite balmy on sunny days.  The Wedge area is actually the southern tip of Cunning Rock.

Getting There

It can be easily seen (and approached) from the road.

8 Total Climbs

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Location: The Wedge Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Wedge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Sun Dog Chimney
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Hair of the Dog
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
Dog Eat Dog
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
Sun Runner
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Sun Dog Chimney
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Hair of the Dog
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Dog Eat Dog
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Sun Runner
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Wedge »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

There are at least 5 or 6 new sport routes, most with bolted anchors, that have gone up in this area in the last month or two. The rock is gritty, and may or may not clean up with subsequent ascents. The routes tend to follow angling dikes or flaring chimneys, and are decent fun. I do not know the names, FA, or ratings, but most felt in the 5.10-11 range. Explore and enjoy. Very sunny and warm for the colder days. Nov 26, 2011
Yannick Gingras
On the road, mostly Southwest
Yannick Gingras   On the road, mostly Southwest
GPS of this area is 34.001996, -116.058508. Dec 11, 2018