The Wedge Rock Climbing
| GPS: |
34.00192, -116.05871 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 13,236 total · 54/month |
| Shared By: | Roger Linfield on Aug 19, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
The Wedge is a prominent pinnacle just northwest of the paved road (park at pullout with display, see pic in Top Secret Tower approach -- pullout is about halfway between Jumbo Rocks campground and Live Oak Picnic area / Split Rocks intersection, directly across from Pope's Hat).
Hike thru a notch in the first formations and aim for the big wedge feature atop the next wall -- routes are on this southeast-facing wall.
This area was the scene of some early JT climbing (1950s). The rock is very coarse. Well protected from north winds and quite balmy on sunny days. The Wedge area is actually the southern tip of Cunning Rock.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Wedge
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