Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Dino Banco.
Page Views: 476 total · 18/month
Shared By: Dino Banco on Nov 12, 2016
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Climb a left leaning crystal dike with the first crux getting past the first bolt and clipping the second. Climbing past the fifth bolt where the dike ends it gets dirty and loose though easy. Scramble past a couple more bolts and chimney/ scramble to the anchors.

Location

Directly below the wedge formation is this left leaning dike.

Protection

Nine bolts. Anchors.

Photos

Matt Hagny
  5.10b
Matt Hagny  
  5.10b
Not sure why the anchors are located where they are. Route coulda ended much earlier -- the 5.2 choss on the top half adds nothing. Bottom half is beautiful. Dec 17, 2017
Matt Hagny
  5.10b
Matt Hagny  
  5.10b
According to Dino, the reason for the anchor location is to enable doing the second pitch of a route put up on 1956 (yes, really -- read the old guidebooks). Oct 14, 2018
Matt Hagny
  5.10b
Matt Hagny  
  5.10b
A crystal broke off the route a short distance above the first bolt, making this first section even more burly. Think it's gone from 10a to 10b because of this. Anyway, the first crux happens just a couple moves off the deck! Nov 30, 2018