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Routes in The Wedge

Dog Eat Dog S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dogsbody, The TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hair of the Dog S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
King Tubby T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Master Blaster T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Sun Dog Chimney S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sun Runner S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wedge, Regular Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
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Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Dino Banco.
Page Views: 208 total · 9/month
Shared By: Dino Banco on Nov 12, 2016
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Up in a gully to the right of Hair of The Dog is this right leaning and overhanging dike route. Beautiful holds on perfect rock past 4 bolts leads to a big throw to a black knob. No anchors.

Location

To get down for now traverse over to the 4th bolt on sun runner and rappel or go to the top of the formation via a short crack into a chimney then climb past a bolt stud which is the last pitch of Point of Interest(wire nut comes in handy) though it almost allways falls off when you do the move. Anchors at the top.

Protection

4 bolts No anchor.

Photos

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Murf  
Rumor was I accidently grabbed the FA of this? At the time there was a fixed pecker which fell out as I tried to clip it. I remember the black knob and thinking about .10c. Nov 14, 2016
Matt Hagny  
 
There are two hooks on this (as of 2018 Oct 14), which are still securely in place and would require a hammer to remove. You must've been on a different route, Murf. 5 days ago
Matt Hagny  
 
Extremely interesting climbing. You might think it not worthwhile due to its being short, but it packs quite a wallop from the opening move until you crank up to the knob (which I don't think is going to be a dyno to attain). I'm thinking this is a very solid 10d or 11a, even by '80s-era Jtree trad rating system. 5 days ago

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