Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: FA Dino Banco. FFA Yannick Gingras.
Page Views: 314 total · 12/month
Shared By: Dino Banco on Nov 12, 2016
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

Up in a gully to the right of Hair of The Dog is this right leaning and overhanging dike route. Beautiful holds on perfect rock past 4 bolts leads to a  black knob. Anchors.

Location

Anchors at the top.

Protection

4 bolts, ring anchors

Photos

Murf  
Rumor was I accidently grabbed the FA of this? At the time there was a fixed pecker which fell out as I tried to clip it. I remember the black knob and thinking about .10c. Nov 14, 2016
Matt Hagny
  5.10c/d
Matt Hagny  
  5.10c/d
There are two hooks on this (as of 2018 Oct 14), which are still securely in place and would require a hammer to remove. You must've been on a different route, Murf. Oct 14, 2018
Matt Hagny
  5.10c/d
Matt Hagny  
  5.10c/d
Extremely interesting climbing. You might think it not worthwhile due to its being short, but it packs quite a wallop from the opening move until you crank over the lip. Oct 14, 2018
Matt Hagny
  5.10c/d
Matt Hagny  
  5.10c/d
So, if you go way to the right of the last (4th) bolt, around the corner, this is a soft ending, so the grade depends on the initial traversing portion (10c/d). If you go up just to the right of the last bolt, off the sloper and clawing at the pebbles while pressing with your left quad, it's a more strenuous and more interesting finish (11a) -- and possibly height-dependent for the grade. I really love this direct finish. Bitchin' cool. This route probably deserves 4 stars out of 4, but I have a hard time giving that many stars to a route that's only 25' long. Especially with big-brother Sun Runner nearby. But why choose? Do them both! Nov 30, 2018
Matt Hagny
  5.10c/d
Matt Hagny  
  5.10c/d
The two cam hooks have been removed, and required a hammer to do so. 4 days ago