Type: Sport, 105 ft
FA: Dino Banco
Page Views: 433 total · 15/month
Shared By: Dino Banco on Nov 12, 2016
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

This is an obvious long ,right traversing dike route. A very cryptic crux past the second bolt will get you up to the start of the traverse. Theres a bit of a run out on good holds to get to the the shallow corner half way thru to clip a bolt and contemplate the second crux. Go all the way around the corner to Sun Dog anchors to rappel.

Location

Start this route to the right of the gully. Three bolts get you to the start of the dike.

Protection

12 bolts to anchors. Shares anchors with Sun Dog.

Photos

Matt Hagny
  5.10c
Matt Hagny  
  5.10c
This is a fabulous, mind-blowing route! So much fun. The first crux (at the 3d bolt) is so cryptic that I worked it extensively on 2 days before resigning it to the "5.impossible" category. I simply had no idea how it might be done. Then Dino showed me. Wow, is it ever cool, and not all that hard -- if you have exactly the right sequence. This would be one heck of an onsight! The route eases up after that for aways, and then, bang, the second crux is staring at you. Not nearly as devilish as the first, it still requires some finesse. Then it's fairly casual to the anchor, but with interesting moves. Such a blast!!!! 5 stars out of 4.

Using a runner instead of a draw at the 4th bolt helps with rope drag. And also the second-to-last bolt (just before the dihedral). Dec 3, 2018