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The Wedge

California > Joshua Tree NP > Pinto Basin > Jumbo Rock Area > Jumbo Rock West
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

The Wedge is a prominent pinnacle just northwest of the paved road (park at pullout with display, see pic in Top Secret Tower approach -- pullout is about halfway between Jumbo Rocks campground and Live Oak Picnic area / Split Rocks intersection, directly across from Pope's Hat). 

Hike thru a notch in the first formations and aim for the big wedge feature atop the next wall -- routes are on this southeast-facing wall.  

This area was the scene of some early JT climbing (1950s). The rock is very coarse. Well protected from north winds and quite balmy on sunny days.  The Wedge area is actually the southern tip of Cunning Rock.

Getting There

It can be easily seen, and approached, from the road.

Routes from Left to Right

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 1
● Wedge, Regular Route
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
● The Dogsbody
TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
● Hair Of The Dog
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
● Dog Eat Dog
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 9
● Sun Runner
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 1
● King Tubby
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 15
● Sun Dog Chimney
Sport
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
 2
● Master Blaster
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Wedge, Regular Route
 1
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad 2 pitches
● The Dogsbody
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a TR
● Hair Of The Dog
 8
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Dog Eat Dog
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Sun Runner
 9
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● King Tubby
 1
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
● Sun Dog Chimney
 15
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Master Blaster
 2
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Good bouldering highball. Close to Sun Runner.
[Hide Photo] Good bouldering highball. Close to Sun Runner.
The Wedge and [[Exhibit Rock]]105851230
[Hide Photo] The Wedge and Exhibit Rock
The Wedge.<br> Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] The Wedge. Photo by Blitzo.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Richard Shore
[Hide Comment] There are at least 5 or 6 new sport routes, most with bolted anchors, that have gone up in this area in the last month or two. The rock is gritty, and may or may not clean up with subsequent ascents. The routes tend to follow angling dikes or flaring chimneys, and are decent fun. I do not know the names, FA, or ratings, but most felt in the 5.10-11 range. Explore and enjoy. Very sunny and warm for the colder days. Nov 26, 2011
Yannick Gingras
On the road, mostly Southwest
[Hide Comment] GPS of this area is 34.001996, -116.058508. Dec 11, 2018