GPS: 35.805, -106.139 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Anthony Stout on May 17, 2006
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico State Requirements Details

Description

The routes at the Poultrygeist area tend to be a little more diverse than those on in the Chicken Little Area, with more pockets, overhangs, some jugs, and some exciting stemming. I thought the routes actually tended to be more fun here, in general. The routes range from low 5.10 to 5.12a.

Getting There

See
Cockscomb crag area overview. Courtesy of Rick Bradshaw, author of online guide: losalamos.com/diablo/defaul…. . Head right from the top of the trail at Chicken Little area, heading along the base of the cliffs until you get past a chossy area of rock to nice stone again.

Routes

Walking toward the right from the Chicken Little Area, you will come across two routes in nice rock. It will be an obvious break from the choss. These first two routes are (left to right):

Chicken Cha Cha (5.10d)
Cock Star (5.11c)

Continuing right along the path, you will come upon a series of other routes. Again, from left to right, these routes are:

Cockwork Orange (5.10d)
Finger Lichen Good (5.10a)
Stunt Cock (5.12a)
Chicken Out (5.10c)
Cock -a-doodle-do (5.11c)
Chicken Fingers (5.10c), Trad
Poultrygeist (5.11a)
Chicks with Ricks (5.10c)
Crack L of Cockeyed (5.9), Trad
Cockeyed (5.10c), See note below
Fowl Play (5.11a), See note below

NOTE: Cockeyed and Fowl Play are both rated incorrectly in Beverly's Jemez Rock, as both are listed as 5.8. The ratings above more correctly represent the difficulties of the climbs and also are the ratings in Rick Bradshaw's online guide.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Poultrygeist Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 17
Chicken Out
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 9
Cock -a-doodle-do
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Chicken Out
 17
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Cock -a-doodle-do
 9
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
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