Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Bradshaw
Page Views: 883 total · 6/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on May 24, 2007
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

This fun climb begins with a short slab that leads to a big-ish roof, and finishes with a so-so dihedral. Begin in a broad corner, passing a seemingly unnecessary bolt to a good stance below the roof. Clip up high and left, then ascend directly over the roof (perhaps just a bit rightwards) on killer-good jugs and maybe a heel-hook.

Ascend the arete left of the dihedral for a few bolts before veering right into the ever-steepening dihedral. Dwindling holds and a building pump lead to the anchor.

Location

Immediately right of Stunt Cock, immediately left of Cock a Doodle Do.

Protection

Bolts, 2 quick-link BA

Photos

Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
  5.10d
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
  5.10d
This, and Chicks with Ricks, were in my opinion the best of their grade at the Cockscomb crag. With all the crimping and side pulling, these two routes offer some diversity in movement.

Watch the crux at the top, it's certainly a thinker. Apr 6, 2008
Robin
Albuquerque, NM
 
Robin   Albuquerque, NM
 
Well Anthony I'd love to see your beta for the top some day.... I guess we figured it out, but hey maybe you have a better plan than I!

A great route and well worth the hike. May 27, 2008
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
  5.10d
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
  5.10d
Sorry Robbin... Wish I could help you but that was like, two months ago! Much to long ago for me to remember the moves! Jun 1, 2008
Robin
Albuquerque, NM
 
Robin   Albuquerque, NM
 
Well I must admit that figuring it out for myself will be a more beneficial experience in the long run anyway. Happy climbing! Jul 5, 2008
I climbed this route recently for the first time and decided to try staying on the arete all the way to the top instead of moving right into the dihedral. This proved feasible with the crux at the very top. It felt about 10c. Oct 30, 2017