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Routes in Prusik Peak

Der Sportsman T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Solid Gold T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
South Face Beckey-Davis Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stanley-Burgner Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
West Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Description

This granite pyramid is not the largest piece of rock but its unusually solid rock is home to some of the cascades best alpine rock routes. Accomanied by a beautiful lake this peak has everything from the beginner to the burlified alpinist. While popular on weekends you can find the entire peak to yourself at times.

Look for booty neutrinos while your there.

Getting There

Approach Prusik Peak via Snow Lakes Trail or Colchuck and Stuart lakes Trail. Both Trailheads require USFS parking permits and camping is by permit only between June 15 - Oct 15. Acquire permits at the Leavenworth Ranger Station.

For Snow Lakes approach:
Follow Icicle Rd. 4.3 miles to the Snow Creek Trail Head parking lot on the left. Follow the trail out of the parking lot past the billboard and over the creek. This trail will take you past Nada and Snow Lakes and put you at Lake Vivianne, looking directly at the south face of Prusik Peak, in about 10 miles with 5,000+ft elevation gain. Once at Lake Vivianne, follow trails up and right to Temple Lake and continue up climbers paths through boulders to the base of Prusik Peak for south face routes or hike to Prusik Pass to climb West Ridge route.

For Colchuck/Stuart Lakes approach:
Follow Icicle Rd. about 8.5 miles to Bridge Creek Campground. Find FS road 7601 at the far west end of the campground and follow it until you reach the Stuart Lake Trailhead. Hike the trail for 2.5 miles and take an obvious left leading to Colchuck lake. Once at the lake, boulder hop to the south end of the lake, passing underneath Colchuck and Dragontail Peaks, heading for Aasgard pass to the left of Dragontail. Follow Aasgard to its top on a well maintained trail. From the top continue on the Upper Enchantments trail until Prusik Peak is visible and choose whether to approach via Prusik Pass or Lake Vivianne.

Note: Approach from Snow Lakes tacks on an additional, approximate 2 miles and 1000ft of elevation gain, but is much more gradual and consistent. I.e. Aasgard pass gains 2.2k ft elevation in .8 miles. Snow lakes trail is also much more shaded on hot, sunny approach days.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Prusik Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Stuck Rope, Please Help.

Reward, Dinner + Beer ($50)

Rope stuck after the 1st rappel.
Green 70m, Mammut Infinity Rope.
If recovered, please return to Anna Cohen 918-361-9552 Aug 1, 2017
Jayson Nissen
Corvallis, OR
Jayson Nissen   Corvallis, OR
While the approach from Snow Lakes adds to the overall distance, I found it to be much easier to get a snow lakes permit than a core permit. The first day we did the lottery for a permit no one initially bid on the snow lakes zone and almost everyone went for Colchuk or Core. The second time the same thing happened and we were the only ones to say Snow Lakes so we got it. The setting is fantastic, the rock is great, and the Burgner-Stanley was awesome. I hope to go back for more. Jul 22, 2016
Lhotsa
Telluride, CO
Lhotsa   Telluride, CO
Who dropped a LaSportiva approach shoe at the base of Prusik Peak? I found it on Sunday 18th October, and looked around for the other shoe and instead found three Black Diamond micro stoppers.

Oct 19, 2015
The approach for this area is decidedly non-trivial, either direction. Unless you're going very fast-and-light, plan on a full day's hike just to approach. Weather can also be a big consideration and can call for other gear (like ice axes for Aasgard and for the traverse off the north face snowfield).

For the approaches, a map is really valuable:
greentrailsmaps.com/maps/se…
You can pick these up in paper form in Leavenworth @ either climbing shop. Jul 9, 2010
Rafe  
"Climb up Icicle canyon passing several lakes. Eventually take a trail heading up on the right (north) side of the canyon"

I hope no one comes to this site for an approach or route description. Aug 23, 2009
sqwirll
Las Vegas
sqwirll   Las Vegas
It's actually Prusik. Aug 4, 2008
Blitzo  
A very beautiful place! Sep 14, 2006

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