Type: Trad, Alpine, 80 ft (24 m)
GPS: 47.48786, -120.78373
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,176 total · 27/month
Shared By: Justin Sackett on Sep 10, 2022
Admins: Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan

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Description Suggest change

This route climbs the striking and sustained splitter finger crack that taunts you as you walk by to the wide, grovely P1 of the Stanley Burgner. Why grovel more than you already will need to on the Stanley? Climb this instead.

The pitch starts out with 15 feet of #3s with awesome stemming movement on face holds to supplement. It continues into a splitter finger crack ranging from .3-.75 with interesting and flowy movemnet on flakes and feet to the left.  Finally, it finishes with physical yet techy moves through 15 feet of stellar stemming and laybacking straight up to join with the Burger Stanley.

Unsure if this line has been climbed before but would be shocked if it hasn't based on its proximity to the Stanley Burgner.  I followed it and felt that it was similar in difficulty to P1 of Solid Gold. We think it's 10+ but you could easily aid through any part if needed. Crux for me was the top.

Location Suggest change

This route is on the south face of Prusik Peak. 20 feet to the climber's left of the normal 5.8 start of the Stanley-Burgner route. The pitch tops out at the same spot that the Stanley-Burgner P1 tops out. We easily linked this pitch with P2 of the Stanley-Burgner with really no rope drag.

Protection Suggest change

To protect well- doubles from .2-.75 , singles from #1-#3. Nuts and small C3s could be nice to protect the last 10 feet.

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