Avg: 3.7 from 153 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 6 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Read the route name|
|Page Views:||33,098 total · 174/month|
|Shared By:||Karsten Duncan on Mar 22, 2006 · Updates|
|Admins:||Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
Burgner-Stanley is a direct and obvious route visible from the ground on superb rock with high quality pitches. Pitches 1-2 and 3-4 can be linked into c. 180-ft pitches, easily.
P1: Climb either a 5.6/5.7 chimney or a 5.8 wide crack to the left of the chimney to gain low fifth class terrain with trees.
P2: Scramble up to the last tallest tree, facing a knobbed wall with a thin crack going up.
P3: Climb the crack and exit right on large knobs until you reach the deep gully.
P4: Climb the gully and belay underneath a good ledge below the obvious chockstone. 5.8
P5: Tunnel between the chockstone and climb nice cracks up into a flaring squeeze chimney. Build a belay atop the chimney and move the belay right to start P6. 5.9
P6: Climb up the left facing corner and summit! 5.9+
Pro to 4" with doubles in .75 -2. Include TCU's.
Walk eastward once on the summit and rappel the north face with slung belay stations. Rappel with either 1 or 2 ropes.
The route goes up the south face of the peak. Traverse the lake until you find the start. Walk off the west face route or rappel the north side of the peak. Also beware of the snafflehounds. They will eat your shoes, gear, etc!!! Approx coords of P1: 47.48681, -120.78457