Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Read the route name
Page Views: 27,177 total · 165/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Mar 22, 2006 with improvements by Nick S
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

This is one of the finest alpine routes you may ever experience. The climbing is sustained, varied, and amazing.

Burgner-Stanley is a direct and obvious route visible from the ground on superb rock with high quality pitches. Pitches 1-2 and 3-4 can be linked into c. 180-ft pitches, easily.

P1: Climb either a 5.6/5.7 chimney or a 5.8 wide crack to the left of the chimney to gain low fifth class terrain with trees.

P2: Scramble up to the last tallest tree, facing a knobbed wall with a thin crack going up.

P3: Climb the crack and exit right on large knobs until you reach the deep gully.

P4: Climb the gully and belay underneath a good ledge below the obvious chockstone. 5.8

P5: Tunnel between the chockstone and climb nice cracks up into a flaring squeeze chimney. Build a belay atop the chimney and move the belay right to start P6. 5.9

P6: Climb up the left facing corner and summit! 5.9+

Pro to 4" with doubles in .75 -2. Include TCU's.

Descent:
Walk eastward once on the summit and rappel the north face with slung belay stations. Rappel with either 1 or 2 ropes.

Location

The route goes up the south face of the peak. Traverse the lake until you find the start. Walk off the west face route or rappel the north side of the peak. Also beware of the snafflehounds. They will eat your shoes, gear, etc!!!

Protection

A set of doubles to #3 camalots are best but many can go with less. There is little fixed gear on this route or at the top.

Photos