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Prusik Peak

Washington > Central-E Casca… > Stuart-Enchantments

Description

This granite pyramid is not the largest piece of rock, but its unusually solid and home to some of the cascades best alpine rock routes. Acompanied by a beautiful lake, this peak has everything from the beginner to the burlified alpinist. The West Ridge is one of the greatest easy Cascade climbs while the south face holds splitters & splitters & splitters separated by great ledges. Prusik is said to have the best rock in the range. While popular on weekends you can find the entire peak to yourself at times.

Getting There

Approach Prusik Peak via Snow Lakes Trail or Colchuck and Stuart lakes Trail. Both Trailheads require USFS parking permits and camping is by permit only between May 15 - Oct 15. Acquire permits at the Leavenworth Ranger Station.

For Snow Lakes approach:
Follow Icicle Rd. 4.3 miles to the Snow Creek Trail Head parking lot on the left. Follow the trail out of the parking lot past the billboard and over the creek. This trail will take you past Nada and Snow Lakes and put you at Lake Vivianne, looking directly at the south face of Prusik Peak, in about 10 miles with 5,000+ft elevation gain. Once at Lake Vivianne, follow trails up and right to Temple Lake and continue up climbers paths through boulders to the base of Prusik Peak for south face routes or hike to Prusik Pass to climb West Ridge route.

For Colchuck/Stuart Lakes approach:
Follow Icicle Rd. about 8.5 miles to Bridge Creek Campground. Find FS road 7601 at the far west end of the campground and follow it until you reach the Stuart Lake Trailhead. Hike the trail for 2.5 miles and take an obvious left leading to Colchuck lake. Once at the lake, boulder hop to the south end of the lake, passing underneath Colchuck and Dragontail Peaks, heading for Aasgard pass to the left of Dragontail. Follow Aasgard to its top on a well maintained trail. From the top continue on the Upper Enchantments trail until Prusik Peak is visible and choose whether to approach via Prusik Pass or Lake Vivianne.

Note: Approach from Snow Lakes tacks on an additional, approximate 2 miles and 1000ft of elevation gain, but is much more gradual and consistent. I.e. Aasgard pass gains 2.2k ft elevation in .8 miles. Snow lakes trail is also much more shaded on hot, sunny approach days.

Routes from Left to Right

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 348
West Ridge
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 62
Solid Gold
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
 1
Prayer for a Friend
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 27
Der Sportsman
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 2
Alpine Cragger's Delight
Trad, Alpine
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 187
Stanley-Burgner
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 33
Beckey-Davis
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 1
Taylor-Wood Route
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
West Ridge
 348
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Solid Gold
 62
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Prayer for a Friend
 1
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Der Sportsman
 27
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Alpine Cragger's Delight
 2
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Alpine
Stanley-Burgner
 187
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Beckey-Davis
 33
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Taylor-Wood Route
 1
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 8 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Route Overlays Prusik Peak.
[Hide Photo] Route Overlays Prusik Peak.
Prussik Peak.<br>
Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] Prussik Peak. Photo by Blitzo.
Prusik Peak and Mt. Temple Ridge from the upper Enchantments.
[Hide Photo] Prusik Peak and Mt. Temple Ridge from the upper Enchantments.
Routes on Prusik Peak<br>
(mistake: the Boving-Christensen route overlay needs to be shifted left a bit. It accidentally got shifted right in photoshop.)
[Hide Photo] Routes on Prusik Peak (mistake: the Boving-Christensen route overlay needs to be shifted left a bit. It accidentally got shifted right in photoshop.)
Prusik Peak - W. ridge
[Hide Photo] Prusik Peak - W. ridge
Beautiful view of prusik after sending the summit
[Hide Photo] Beautiful view of prusik after sending the summit
March 10th 2020
[Hide Photo] March 10th 2020
Perfection Lake and Prusik Peak
[Hide Photo] Perfection Lake and Prusik Peak
Prussik area.<br>
Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] Prussik area. Photo by Blitzo.
Larches and the core enchantments as the backdrop on a perfect fall day
[Hide Photo] Larches and the core enchantments as the backdrop on a perfect fall day
Mountain goat near the top of Aasgard pass
[Hide Photo] Mountain goat near the top of Aasgard pass
Near our bivvy site my Colchuck Lake
[Hide Photo] Near our bivvy site my Colchuck Lake

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] A very beautiful place! Sep 14, 2006
sqwirll
Las Vegas
[Hide Comment] It's actually Prusik. Aug 4, 2008
[Hide Comment] "Climb up Icicle canyon passing several lakes. Eventually take a trail heading up on the right (north) side of the canyon"

I hope no one comes to this site for an approach or route description. Aug 23, 2009
Chris Joosse
Tacoma, WA
[Hide Comment] The approach for this area is decidedly non-trivial, either direction. Unless you're going very fast-and-light, plan on a full day's hike just to approach. Weather can also be a big consideration and can call for other gear (like ice axes for Aasgard and for the traverse off the north face snowfield).

For the approaches, a map is really valuable:
greentrailsmaps.com/maps/se…
You can pick these up in paper form in Leavenworth @ either climbing shop. Jul 9, 2010
Jayson Nissen
Monterey, CA
[Hide Comment] While the approach from Snow Lakes adds to the overall distance, I found it to be much easier to get a snow lakes permit than a core permit. The first day we did the lottery for a permit no one initially bid on the snow lakes zone and almost everyone went for Colchuk or Core. The second time the same thing happened and we were the only ones to say Snow Lakes so we got it. The setting is fantastic, the rock is great, and the Burgner-Stanley was awesome. I hope to go back for more. Jul 22, 2016