Type: Trad, Alpine, 650 ft (197 m), 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Fred Beckey, Dan Davis (1962)
Page Views: 13,102 total · 128/month
Shared By: Aaron Nash on Jul 6, 2013 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route

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The original line up the striking south face of Prusik Peak.

Pitch 1: Climb up the chimney located left of two prominent Vs on the south face. At the top of the chimney move left and climb up on knobs to a belay. 5.7

Pitch 2&3: Climb rightward up steep slab and ascend a long chimney gully until you reach a large ledge (Snafflehound ledge) 5.7

Pitch 4: Traverse right on the ledge to a small tree and then up a short steep step to the base of the crux. 5.5

Pitch 5: Climb a shallow dihedral. You will be forced to the right, until an overhang forces you to make a step-across to the left into a flaring jam crack climbing this over a buldge. Above the buldge the climbing eases off on face holds and chicken heads. Belay at next ledge. 5.9

Pitch 6: Continue up the crack system (steep gully) bypassing a chockstone on the left to the small notch east of the summit horn 5.8

Pitch 7A: From the notch, descend a few feet on the north side and step right onto a small ramp. Ascend ramp and cross a delicate friction traverse ending in a corner. Ascend a good jam crack to the summit. 5.8

Pitch 7B: From the notch, ascend left up the obvious crack on the wall leading to the summit. 5.10

From the summit, descend the North face rap route, marked by a bolt and tat from the summit. Can be done with a single 60m rope


Gear to 4", doubles .5-2. Full set of chocks


Located to climbers right of the start of the Stanley-Bergner route. Look for the two large Vs and the chimney. Can't miss it