Type: Trad, Alpine, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 73,520 total · 334/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Mar 22, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters

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Description Suggest change

This climb mainly goes up easier terrain on solid rock. The most distinctive pitch is near the top and goes up a short exposed slab (5.7). Otherwise the climbing is 5.5 or easier. Stay fairly close to the ridge proper looking for easiest path. Spectacular position and fun climbing make this a classic. It would see 100X the traffic if you didn't have to hike 6 hrs to get to it.

Location Suggest change

Coming up from Icicle canyon traverse the west side of the lake and climb to the top of the saddle on the west side of the peak.

Route Description:
Pitch 1 - Begin at the highest point on Prusik Pass. Looking at Prusik Peak you will see a distinct 5.6ish crack that will take you through blocky climbing to the West Ridge. Belay when the ridge levels out or when you hit a flat trail. This is a long pitch
Pitch 2 - Follow the flat trail around the Northside of the ridge. Climb up 15 ft to the southside of the ridge. The exposure is great here. Stop and belay at a "slingable" block before the 5.7 slab crux.
Pitch 3 - Clip the pin and pull the crux. Ascend back to the southside of the ridge for more exposure then drop onto the northside of the ridge, down climb and traverse the trail to the start of the last pitch. Belay from a large ledge system.
Pitch 4 - There are two options. The OW climbing on the left (see pic) requires pulling a small bulge on hand jams (5.7ish) and protects with nuts and a .75 cam at your chin. Option 2, to the right, is a layback crack. You can belay the second through a notch at the Peak.

Make 4 single raps to the northside of Prusik Peak and walk back over Prusik Pass. You can easily recover gear from the base of this climb.

(Description from Jonathan Ramirez)

Protection Suggest change

Nuts and pro to 3 inches. There are no bolts but may be able to use slings for anchors.