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Routes in Prusik Peak

Der Sportsman T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Solid Gold T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
South Face Beckey-Davis Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stanley-Burgner Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
West Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 39,926 total, 280/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Mar 22, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

This climb mainly goes up easier terrain on solid rock. The most distinctive pitch is near the top and goes up a short exposed slab (5.7). Otherwise the climbing is 5.5 or easier. Stay fairly close to the ridge proper looking for easiest path. Spectacular position and fun climbing make this a classic. It would see 100X the traffic if you didn't have to hike 6 hrs to get to it.

Location

Coming up from Icicle canyon traverse the west side of the lake and climb to the top of the saddle on the west side of the peak.

Route Description:
Pitch 1 - Begin at the highest point on Prusik Pass. Looking at Prusik Peak you will see a distinct 5.6ish crack that will take you through blocky climbing to the West Ridge. Belay when the ridge levels out or when you hit a flat trail. This is a long pitch
Pitch 2 - Follow the flat trail around the Northside of the ridge. Climb up 15 ft to the southside of the ridge. The exposure is great here. Stop and belay at a "slingable" block before the 5.7 slab crux.
Pitch 3 - Clip the pin and pull the crux. Ascend back to the southside of the ridge for more exposure then drop onto the northside of the ridge, down climb and traverse the trail to the start of the last pitch. Belay from a large ledge system.
Pitch 4 - There are two options. The OW climbing on the left (see pic) requires pulling a small bulge on hand jams (5.7ish) and protects with nuts and a .75 cam at your chin. Option 2, to the right, is a layback crack. You can belay the second through a notch at the Peak.

Make 4 single raps to the northside of Prusik Peak and walk back over Prusik Pass. You can easily recover gear from the base of this climb.

(Description from Jonathan Ramirez)

Protection

Nuts and pro to 3 inches. There are no bolts but may be slings for anchors.
Raddam6
Salt Lake
Raddam6   Salt Lake
The onsight solo in loose off-brand hiking boots was slightly gripping, but if I had died on the way down it might have still been worth it. Oct 1, 2017
Lan Dogan
Seattle, WA
  5.6
Lan Dogan   Seattle, WA
  5.6
P1 basically seems to be choose your own adventure. On P1 above the first crack in the pictures, you get to a point where there is continued 5- scrambling or there is a right handed corner crack (no harder than 5.5 or 5.6). I took the corner crack and belayed at a ledge just below a slabby right handed flake. The slab traverses left and around the corner is the ledge with the trail referred to in the pitch description. I saved traversing the corner for my second to limit rope drag. 60m rope was plenty for P1 and P2. Aug 13, 2016
Zacks  
Climbed this one day during a multiday trip. We used a 60m twin in folded in half (30m to climb) and it worked ok, we had to add a traverse pitch after p2 and p3 so we did a total of 6 pitches. We got off route after pitch 1 but got back in before the fixed pin. I think we free soloed the first half of p1 before starting a belay thinking it was still the approach. Also there is a great offset nut placement next to the fixed pin which is an old ring pin style. We brought a single set of cams frome .5 to 2 and where happy, along with nuts and the dmm offsets. the offwidth on p5 has a burley section. overall fun route Aug 5, 2016
Nick Sweeney
Spokane, WA
  5.7
Nick Sweeney   Spokane, WA
  5.7
Fun route, done best when combined into a through hike of the Enchantments. The finger crack that Nick commented on is fun. I would say it is 5.8 at the hardest and can be protected completely with nuts. Overall, 3 star climbing in 4 star position! Full trip report available on alpinelines.wordpress.com. Jul 17, 2016
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
  5.7
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
  5.7
The pitch breakdown here doesn't describe it, but if you look at Beckey's topo there is a "short jam" crack after the easy ledge traverse to get to P4. If you look climber right you'll see a finger crack in a right facing corner, it easily links to the "layback flake" with singles extended. Would probably be a 5.8 if the face were clean, I'd give it a 9 since choosing from non lichen coated right feet made the moves a bit larger. Jun 13, 2016
Emil Briggs  
 
Awesome climb in an a beautiful setting. The description is mistaken though. The crux was not the 5.7 slab. It was surviving the hordes of bloodthirsty mosquitoes. Jun 6, 2015
419
Sacramento
 
419   Sacramento
 
Route Description:
Pitch 1 - Begin at the highest point on Prusik Pass. Looking at Prusik Peak you will see a distinct 5.6ish crack that will take you through blocky climbing to the West Ridge. Belay when the ridge levels out or when you hit a flat trail. This is a long pitch
Pitch 2 - Follow the flat trail around the Northside of the ridge. Climb up 15 ft to the southside of the ridge. The exposure is great here. Stop and belay at a "slingable" block before the 5.7 slab crux.
Pitch 3 - Clip the pin and pull the crux. Ascend back to the southside of the ridge for more exposure then drop onto the northside of the ridge, down climb and traverse the trail to the start of the last pitch. Belay from a large ledge system.
Pitch 4 - There are two options. The OW climbing on the left (see pic) requires pulling a small bulge on hand jams (5.7ish) and protects with nuts and a .75 cam at your chin. Option 2, to the right, is a layback crack. You can belay the second through a notch at the Peak.

Make 4 single raps to the northside of Prusik Peak and walk back over Prusik Pass. You can easily recover gear from the base of this climb.

If you are really lucky you will run into great people on this climb, they will give you water, let you pass and watch you grovel up the offwidth section. You will owe said people beer in trade for "Alpine Water." Thank you Alie.

Your Alpine Friend,
Jonathan Ramirez Sep 26, 2012
Justin Johnsen
Nor Cal
Justin Johnsen   Nor Cal  
Just a note for future West Ridge seekers. We used a topo from Fred Beckey's guide, and it showed a left-facing dihedral to start. If you follow it, you will be off route on something 5.7+ below the white horn. The warning sign which we should have noticed was too much lichen, moss and loose rock for such a popular route. Instead I assume a clean, lichen-free right-facing dihedral closer to the "balanced rock" puts you on the 5.5 ridge climb.

[edit: in hindsight, Beckey's topo may be correct. We started the climb too low and east, but there may be a left-facing dihedral higher up at the real route start.] Sep 3, 2012
We did this route with a 50 meter twin rope doubled in half, and it was very doable (including rappels). You can also save time on the rappels if you just down climb a few short sections, we only did three of them. You don't need to bring a number 3 camalot; and if I brought doubles of any sizes it would only be #1 and #2. Though doubles are not really necessary if you're a 5.8-5.9 climber, this route takes great gear wherever you want to put it. Feb 27, 2011
chrishar Hargarten
Bishop, CA
  5.7
chrishar Hargarten   Bishop, CA
  5.7
There are slings at all belay stations, and the descent consists of 5 - 60m single rope rappels from the summit - very straightforward. Also, it should be noted that there appear to be bail slings from most belay stations so getting down is very possible if you can't complete the route for any reason. It's a surprisingly friendly route from that perspective, and probably due to the sheer amount of traffic it draws. Jul 29, 2009
sqwirll
Las Vegas
 
sqwirll   Las Vegas
 
Climbed it car to car in 12 hours. For gear, we brought a single run of .5 to 2 camalots, a half dozen nuts, and a 60 m twin doubled over. This setup worked well and let us hike with very light packs. Aug 4, 2008
rpc
 
rpc  
 
My wife & I did this in a car-to-car effort the summer we started climbing. A nice route up a great peak. Mar 21, 2008