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Routes in Prusik Peak

Der Sportsman T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Solid Gold T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
South Face Beckey-Davis Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stanley-Burgner Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
West Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 450 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Wayne Wallace, Tim Olson 1989
Page Views: 8,787 total, 130/month
Shared By: Shaun Johnson on May 21, 2012 with updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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22 Opinions

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Description

The rock is perfect and so are the surroundings. Solid Gold is an excellent route at a moderate length offering a nice alpine challenge.

Many feel that that the first pitch is the crux although not the technical crux of the climb.

Pitch breakdown (copied from Max Tepfer's comment below):

P1, 10d-Right leaning crack system to under the roof. Obvious and hard to miss.

P2, 11a-(but feels a lot like the 10d) step out and right under the roof and follow the corner to a long #3 camalot-sized horizontal. Belay on gear while standing in the horizontal.

P3, 10a-Link the next pitch to the slab with the 5.8 above. Be careful in the chimney exiting the slab as there's some rotten rock. Follow the seam arcing left on the left wall of the chimney. Belay on a large ledge at the base of the aesthetic last pitch.

P4, 11a-(feels soft) Yes, you get to climb the perfect corner crack above your head. Climb up the corner on small gear for 50ish feet eventually stepping right to a small tree below the crest of the W. Ridge. If you're good about your drag and have enough gear, keep going to the ridge top where you can rap the back side or carry on the summit.

Location

Start right of the outside corner on the left flank of the face.

Protection

Double from Finger tips to #2 and one #3 worked great
Jaddles  
We used Blakes Book for our topo and description and this worked well. We linked P2 and the first half of P3 stopping to build a belay before the 5.8 looser section - (we only had a 60m.
Fantastic route - for more info see TR here jadelittlewood.wordpress.co… Jul 20, 2017
Stellar route! Pitches 1 and 4 are definitely worth the hike in! Pitches 2 and 3 are quite good too.

We linked P1 and part of P2 to a pretty good belay stance in the corner. A purple c3 was useful for the roof crux (see rohanbk's comment). Our second belay was on the slab just before the chimney (half way up P3). Stepped into the chimney on P3 from the slab on the right (see Josh's comment), it was plenty solid.

We used the topo from Blake Herrington's Cascades Rock book, accurate & very descriptive.

Double rack to #2 (BD), #3, 60m rope.

Still a lot of snow on the back side. Axes would have been safer/faster for the traverse after the rappel. Jun 27, 2016
Ben Kunz  
 
It's hard to say anything bad about this route! perfect stone, amazing climbing and the final corner pitch is impeccable! I was blown away! Jul 5, 2015
Josh Baxley
Seattle, WA
  5.11a
Josh Baxley   Seattle, WA
  5.11a
There is no reason to go into the loose block chimney at all. Just go up the ramp to the right of the chimney and traverse left over the top of the chimney into the easy corner. Quick, easy, and safe. Jun 22, 2015
John McDermott
  5.11a
John McDermott  
  5.11a
The detached microwave sized block that was loose on the right side of the chimney is no longer there. I ripped it off while following, thank god I wasn't leading. There is other loose stuff in the chimney but easy to avoid. Killer route! Jun 16, 2015
rohanbk
Seattle, WA
 
rohanbk   Seattle, WA
 
One of the best moderate alpine routes I've had the pleasure of experiencing. Short, sweet, and so much fun.

Our rack consisted of doubles from fingers to fists (#0.2 - 2). A purple c3 is useful for protecting the crux move on p2 and for the final pitch (p4). Moreover, micronuts and small nuts are very useful for the final pitch. We decided to forgo the #3 and didn't miss it at all.

Go forth and enjoy a day that is Solid Effin Gold! Jun 2, 2015
Craig Gorder
Loa, UT
Craig Gorder   Loa, UT
We had to bail before the final pitch due to some bad weathert, but it looks like it'd be 5 stars just about anywhere. Bummed we didn't get to climb it.

Definitely connect the 3rd/4th pitches (chimney pitch and that easy corner thing).
The short chimney is very easy, but there is a completely detached microwave in there on the right side. Don't even look at it, lest you want to ruin your belayer's day. Aug 17, 2014
P2 and P3 as described above can link with a 70m.

If you want to keep your pack light for the long hike in, this route protects great with gear from tips to a #1 camalot. Jul 11, 2013
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
The pitch breakdowns given in the book are pretty vague and do a poor job of indicating when to stop and belay. If I were to do it again I'd do the following: (ignore if you're into adventure onsighting)

P1, 10d-Right leaning crack system to under the roof. Obvious and hard to miss.

P2, 11a-(but feels a lot like the 10d) step out and right under the roof and follow the corner to a long #3 camalot-sized horizontal. Belay on gear while standing in the horizontal.

P3, 10a-Link the next pitch to the slab with the 5.8 above. Be careful in the chimney exiting the slab as there's some rotten rock. Follow the seam arcing left on the left wall of the chimney. Belay on a large ledge at the base of the aesthetic last pitch.

P4, 11a-(feels soft) Yes, you get to climb the perfect corner crack above your head. Climb up the corner on small gear for 50ish feet eventually stepping right to a small tree below the crest of the W. Ridge. If you're good about your drag and have enough gear, keep going to the ridge top where you can rap the back side or carry on the summit.

We didn't bring a four and didn't feel a lack for it. This route is a super classic must do. May 24, 2012