Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Mount Woodson is a San Diego classic with short climbs on great granite. Woodson is made up of hundreds of boulders of all sizes. This area has been known in the past as a bouldering area. However, there are good top rope and lead climbs as well. Woodson has some great practice aid routes to train on. Woodson has a paved road that you can walk up and access the varies climbs as you walk to the antennas at the top of the mountain. Beware if you do not know where you are going you can end up doing a lot of bushwhacking to get to climbs.

Beyond the old classics, a lot of new traffic has brought about some outstanding albeit hard new classics.
!986 Woodson Comp. Promotional (Front)
Ron Kauk. First Annual Stone Masters Competition 1986. Photo: M. Stewart

Getting There

Take Hwy 8 to the 67. Go on the 67 for approximately 17 miles. When you get to the Poway Road junction 14 miles from Hwy 8 continue 3 more miles on the 67. You will see Mount Woodson littered with boulders on the left side of the road.There is parking along the 67 near the Forest service fire station.

299 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mount Woodson

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 107
Poison Oak Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 137
Elsa's Crack
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 88
Milkbar
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 63
Out of Sight
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V0- 4-
 175
Baby Robbins
Trad, Boulder
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 39
Big Grunt
TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a V0 4
 78
Hamburger Crack
Trad, Boulder
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 202
Robbins Crack
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 83
Rockwork Orange
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 74
Crucible
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 44
Digit's Delight
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 68
The Cave
TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c V1 5
 106
Jaws
Trad, Boulder
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 31
Cat Crack
Trad, TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 59
Uncertainty Principle
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Poison Oak Crack Poison Oak Boulder Area
 107
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Elsa's Crack Poison Oak Boulder Area
 137
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Milkbar Milkbar Boulder
 88
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Out of Sight Out of Sight Boulder…
 63
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Baby Robbins Jaws Boulder Area
 175
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V0- 4- Trad, Boulder
Big Grunt Poison Oak Boulder Area
 39
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a TR
Hamburger Crack Poison Oak Boulder Area
 78
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a V0 4 Trad, Boulder
Robbins Crack Robbins Boulder
 202
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Rockwork Orange Rockwork Orange Boulder
 83
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Crucible Summit Area
 74
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
Digit's Delight Cave Area
 44
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
The Cave Cave Area
 68
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c TR
Jaws Jaws Boulder Area
 106
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c V1 5 Trad, Boulder
Cat Crack Rexrodes
 31
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, TR
Uncertainty Principle Uncertainty Principle…
 59
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a TR
More Classic Climbs in Mount Woodson »

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Photos

Taking a pair of hand pruners/loppers would be good idea to aid others Jun 29, 2006
5.12 Trifecta! Check it out...


youtube.com/watch?v=G24vjhG… Apr 6, 2010
G.McCay
Galloway, NJ
G.McCay   Galloway, NJ
A trio of roadside boulders heading up the road on Mt. Woodson...

youtube.com/watch?v=sIrl0C0… Feb 4, 2011
Gary,

I worked that stupid mantle problem back in the day. Your video illustrated my exact performance sans the swearing. 5.11 for sure! Feb 4, 2011
EliotAC
Mill Valley
EliotAC   Mill Valley
Jaws graffiti removal a few weeks ago...
youtube.com/watch?v=t099fv8… Feb 26, 2011
HunterCody
San Diego
HunterCody   San Diego
youtube.com/watch?v=11XM3y9…


CRUXMedia and HairlessMonkeyFilms bring you the first episode of "Crimpin' Aint Easy." Episode 1 features professional climbers Roland Wagner and Chris Lindner and was shot on location around several well known rock climbing havens in Southern California including: Mt. Woodson, Black Mountain and Tramway. Jul 31, 2013
Daniel Gloven
Denver, CO
Daniel Gloven   Denver, CO
Mount Woodson topos:





Sep 29, 2013
Found a harness yesterday 4/22 near vomitorium and tower 2. let me know what it looks like and how I can get it to you and we'll see what we can do! Apr 23, 2016
Daniel Gloven
Denver, CO
Daniel Gloven   Denver, CO
Hey all,

I've received a lot of requests for the full-res version of the PDF topos, so here ya go!

Mount Woodson Upper

Mount Woodson Lower Aug 8, 2017
Hey,
Left a pair of La Sportiva women's Miuras today. They might have been by poison oak crack or the crucible. Please let me know if you found them!
Thanks! Feb 25, 2018