Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Mo Fizari, June 2022
Page Views: 1,234 total · 62/month
Shared By: Pugnacious Slab on Apr 15, 2023
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A real gem buried deep in the poison oak forest of the North side. Unusually long and continuous for the main hill

Pull into the corner and climb 60 ft of finger crack liebacking. The crux is the first 15ft where the crack is thin and the wall is steep. The angle kicks back and the crack thins dramatically as you near the top, eventually petering out. Then climb 20 ft of easy slab to the top. 

Location Suggest change

Follow the Lighthouse boulder trail (starting just left of the boulder with 3 thin cracks) from the Fry-Koegel trail. Eventually the trail leads right to the base of a small cave, hop in and tunnel through to get to the base. 

A TR can be set on this by following the trail to the right of the cave and ascending a sandy gully (beware PO). 

Protection Suggest change

Small cams (0.1-0.5) and a #2 for the top. 2 bolt anchor

Photos

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