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Routes in The Cave Area

Alcoa TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bat Flake TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Big Horn T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V0- 4-
Camlock T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V3- 6A
Cave, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clicker T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Digit's Delight T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fisticuffs T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c V-easy 3
Greg's Crack T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
John's Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Manuel's Horror T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Nightmare on Elm Street V4 6B
Obsession TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pruneface V6 7A
Stairway to Heaven TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Starface TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Walking On Air TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: TR, 17 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,928 total, 34/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on Feb 13, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

The Climb

This east facing route is found via a short trail to the right of The Cave formation. It is an outstanding steep lieback on the right edge of the rock. Positive handholds lead to a lieback throw for the top (done static as well). Highly recommended

Protection

TR, bolts, see below
AJ
 
AJ  
 
First ascent Dick Cilley Feb 13, 2017
DannyJ
San Diego, CA
  5.11a
DannyJ   San Diego, CA
  5.11a
Still no bolts up there. Bring a couple medium size nuts (I used a #8 and #10 BD). Height dependent move to the finish. Feb 12, 2017
tom donnelly
san diego
tom donnelly   san diego
I've only done the dyno,
but I think people have managed to continue to lieback up the arete further up. Oct 19, 2009
Brandon R
Sacramento, CA
Brandon R   Sacramento, CA
Adam,
Off the top of my head: the anchor on; the mystery bolt boulder, hard as nails and the pair of arete climbs nearby, cool jerk (not that I'm climbing it), Manuel's Horror. You can get by without bolts on some of these, but they're way more of a pain in the butt to set up/get off than Alcoa is.
All and all though, I just don't want to see more chopped bolts up there. I do appreciate your interest in maintaining the area though. Feb 23, 2008
Adam Stackhouse    
 
Brandon,
Thanks for your comments. All of the above is true. I didn't know that the bolts had been gone for that long. Since so many of the Woodson's climbs have TR bolts, I don't think that it's too out of line to have them installed on this also. Carrying some nuts isn't uncalled for, just more or less uncommon. But what interests me more, is what problems at Woodson you thought "deserved" a bolt or two? Send me an email if you want, and we'll see what we can do! Sep 29, 2007
Brandon R
Sacramento, CA
Brandon R   Sacramento, CA
The bolts have been gone for at least 4 years now. A friend and I tried to patch up the bad chop job a few years ago, but you can still see 'em.
It really isn't too hard to set up an anchor with gear, a set of small to medium nuts is all you really need.

If you are going to put in bolts though, consider using just one since there is a VERY easy gear placement that could serve as a backup if someone wants it. And really, if you're carrying a rope up there, it's not that hard to carry a few stoppers too. I can think of many other places at Woodson and in SoCal that need a bolt much more than the top of Alcoa. Save your money for something more deserving. Sep 28, 2007
Adam Stackhouse    
 
The TR bolts are gone? Why? While nuts did work for years, the subsequent bolt installation worked even better for another several years. They will be replaced. Geez... Sep 10, 2007
mschlocker
San Diego, CA
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
I think there has been some controversy on the bolts on this climb (go figure). We were there today and no bolts. We used a grey alien and a medium nut among other gear so set a TR on this. Sep 9, 2007