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Routes in Robbins Boulder

Eric's Face TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lie Detector T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a C1
Robbins Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Robbins slab V4-5 6B+
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: Royal Robbins
Page Views: 13,451 total, 93/month
Shared By: david baker on Jan 30, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

This perfect hand crack is the Woodson classic. The rock is a little slick but keep your feet in the crack and you will have no problem. The crux is the first half of the climb. After the first 15 feet the crack widens for perect hands.

Protection

Use #1 and 2 camalot. Some people do this as a high ball boulder problem. Crack is the same size the entire climb. There is a bolt anchor and rap rings at top of rock.
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.10a
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.10a
That smell ain't guano- it's from all the climbers stickin' their sweaty paws in the crack! Sep 4, 2017
Prithipal Khalsa
San Diego
Prithipal Khalsa   San Diego
A bunch of winged rodents moved in. Bats I think. Both this climb and lie detector smell not so good. Watch out for sticking you hands in poop on lie detector. Aug 31, 2017
nathanael
Riverside, CA
 
nathanael   Riverside, CA
 
Check about half way down this page for a really excellent telling of the story of how this climb got its name.

supertopo.com/climbing/thre… Mar 14, 2016
Rich Welker
Riverside, CA
  5.10a
Rich Welker   Riverside, CA
  5.10a
It takes BD 0.75 and 2 #1. I wish it was longer! Jun 16, 2014
Josh is right, couple BD #1 C4s are perfect. I had DMM dragon cams, which are just a hair smaller (I think). I could have walked them up and down the majority of it. You could probably find an area for a .75 here and there, but #1 places with almost zero thought. Dec 4, 2013
ccross
San Diego, CA
ccross   San Diego, CA
For such a classic climb, I'm surprised how inconsistent the information is. Or maybe people just repeat what they heard and sometimes get it wrong.
35ft and 20 ft were listed here, and the guidebook says 24ft.
The Mountain Project description says the crack is the same size the entire climb, yet also says the crack widens for perfect hands after 15ft up.
Then there are comments on gear from .75 to 2.
Guess it's time for me to find out for myself next outing. Dec 13, 2012
sdrockstar81
el cajon, CA
  5.10a
sdrockstar81   el cajon, CA
  5.10a
This crack accepts all forms of credit... Just insert and slide through!!!! Oct 28, 2012
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.10a
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.10a
I thought I knew how to hand jam until I tried to climb this! It'll teach ya how to jam.

I've always used two #1 C4's on this climb. You could use a smaller cam or a nut in the off-fingers at the top if you wanted to. I'd like to see how you could get a #2 to fit into this crack.

I ran into Eric Beck at the Happy's a few years back and we got to talking about Mount Woodson. He told me that Robbins never climbed this route. The guys who did the first ascent just spread the rumor to get people to climb their route. Seeing how great the route is, the rumor seemed unnecessary. Aug 29, 2011
Brent Coe
La Mesa, CA
Brent Coe   La Mesa, CA
For me it likes .75 camalots, and definitely not #2. Jun 2, 2009
426
426  
Crux is downclimbing, provided you did it without ropes... Mar 21, 2007
If you want to add a little more to the climb start as a sit start. This makes for a nice additional move or two. Jun 23, 2006
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10a
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10a
As the story goes, in the 1960s Royal Robbins was shown this boulder, and it's striking 20ft crack. The cats that showed him the route boasted that they had already sent it, but didn't say that they did it via aid. It was that very day, that the Robbins Crack saw its first free ascent as bewildered eyes witnessed Royal's effort and so named the route. Feb 9, 2006