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Routes in Acid Rock

Charley Don't Surf T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Divine Ms M., The T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Four Eyes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Sandinista T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Scary Monsters T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b X
Unknown between Divine Miss M & Erotic Plants S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Description

Acid rock is the middle tier in the group of rocks beginning with Helen's Dome and ending with Velcro Wall (Sheep Rock's summit) It is 500' to 600' tall with immaculate granite slabs and a few good cracks. The first 200' to 400' holds the best climbing.

Getting There

The directions under Helen's Dome are concise and will get you there.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Acid Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
The Divine Ms M.
Trad, Sport 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Four Eyes
Trad 2 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unknown between Divine Miss M & Eroti…
Sport 4 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Charley Don't Surf
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Sandinista
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Divine Ms M. 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, Sport 4 pitches
Four Eyes 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Unknown between Divine Miss… 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport 4 pitches
Charley Don't Surf 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Sandinista 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Acid Rock »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
rob bauer
Golden, CO
rob bauer   Golden, CO
I did the route just left of Charlie Don't Surf, which Hubbel calls #39, Unknown 5.10b. The bolts are all 3/8". The 2nd pitch has about 9 or 10 bolts now, is a bit friable, and struck me and my partner as a lot harder than rated. (We both thought Pow Wow Canal was easier, which seems right at 11a.) It appears to be drawn right, with the 2nd pitch easing up when you reach the shallow crack slightly diagonalling up right to the anchors (with much appreciated beefy bolts just below the old chains). Anybody else think it's under-rated?

BTW, assuming Hubbel has the drawings right, I did see 5 or 6 bolts to the left of us on the 2nd pitch of Sandinista(?) are still the old Leeper hangers, no doubt with 1/4" Star Drive or Button Head bolts, though it appears there's been some work on the first pitch, including the 1st anchors with quick connects. Any thoughts on this? May 31, 2006
Matt Juth
Evergreen
Matt Juth   Evergreen
For some reason most of my description and directions are gone.....

The bridge has not been replaced! I didn't say that!

There is a log you can cross, with a handline north of the old bridge. You can get there by parking on the ridge just before you get to the old buried campground. You will see a "danger" sign, and a laminated piece of paper telling you that there is a log just east of the ridge top. Follow a trail along the top of the ridge, drop straight down to the river, and you will see it. From there, you can regain the old trail system on the other side of the river. Apr 27, 2005

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