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Unknown between Divine Miss M & Erotic Plants
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.1 from 22
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Routes in Acid Rock
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Charley Don't Surf T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Divine Ms M., The T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Four Eyes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Sandinista T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Scary Monsters T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b X |
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Unknown between Divine Miss M & Erotic Plants S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 370 ft (112 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 5,417 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | rob bauer on Jun 1, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
There is some confusion about this route, and since it's not otherwise listed, here's what I know from climbing it a few weeks ago. It's not my route.
This is the line with the new bolts that starts right off the block between Charlie Don't Surf and Erotic Plants. There are 3 bolts on this block/close to the ground which may be the crux; the grade eases up after you step onto the actual face. Continue straight up 70' to the anchors on 'Miss M. (You'll note the old anchors of 'Miss M poorly hammered to shreds 6 feet away. Good example of how NOT to do it.) Anyhow, the 2nd pitch IS the 2nd pitch of 'Miss M, about 80' straight up to anchors at the ledge. You probably want to save rope and traverse over to the base of the 3rd pitch which starts about 10' right of 'Miss M. Follow 12 or 13 bolts right and up about 160' to the visible anchors on the headwall. The 4th pitch follows new bolts up right and over the headwall about 70' to the top. We rap'd the route, but you can walk off from the summit to the right. This could probably be done in 3 pitches by combining the first two with a long rope. Excellent rock, and if you think it's over bolted anywhere, don't clip.
This is the line with the new bolts that starts right off the block between Charlie Don't Surf and Erotic Plants. There are 3 bolts on this block/close to the ground which may be the crux; the grade eases up after you step onto the actual face. Continue straight up 70' to the anchors on 'Miss M. (You'll note the old anchors of 'Miss M poorly hammered to shreds 6 feet away. Good example of how NOT to do it.) Anyhow, the 2nd pitch IS the 2nd pitch of 'Miss M, about 80' straight up to anchors at the ledge. You probably want to save rope and traverse over to the base of the 3rd pitch which starts about 10' right of 'Miss M. Follow 12 or 13 bolts right and up about 160' to the visible anchors on the headwall. The 4th pitch follows new bolts up right and over the headwall about 70' to the top. We rap'd the route, but you can walk off from the summit to the right. This could probably be done in 3 pitches by combining the first two with a long rope. Excellent rock, and if you think it's over bolted anywhere, don't clip.
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