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Unknown between Divine Miss M & Erotic Plants
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.3 from 11
votes
Routes in Acid Rock
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Charley Don't Surf T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Divine Ms M., The T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Four Eyes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Sandinista T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Scary Monsters T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b X |
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Unknown between Divine Miss M & Erotic Plants S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 370 ft, 4 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,165 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | rob bauer on Jun 1, 2006 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
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Description
There is some confusion about this route, and since it's not otherwise listed, here's what I know from climbing it a few weeks ago. It's not my route.
This is the line with the new bolts that starts right off the block between Charlie Don't Surf and Erotic Plants. There are 3 bolts on this block/close to the ground which may be the crux; the grade eases up after you step onto the actual face. Continue straight up 70' to the anchors on 'Miss M. (You'll note the old anchors of 'Miss M poorly hammered to shreds 6 feet away. Good example of how NOT to do it.) Anyhow, the 2nd pitch IS the 2nd pitch of 'Miss M, about 80' straight up to anchors at the ledge. You probably want to save rope and traverse over to the base of the 3rd pitch which starts about 10' right of 'Miss M. Follow 12 or 13 bolts right and up about 160' to the visible anchors on the headwall. The 4th pitch follows new bolts up right and over the headwall about 70' to the top. We rap'd the route, but you can walk off from the summit to the right. This could probably be done in 3 pitches by combining the first two with a long rope. Excellent rock, and if you think it's over bolted anywhere, don't clip.
This is the line with the new bolts that starts right off the block between Charlie Don't Surf and Erotic Plants. There are 3 bolts on this block/close to the ground which may be the crux; the grade eases up after you step onto the actual face. Continue straight up 70' to the anchors on 'Miss M. (You'll note the old anchors of 'Miss M poorly hammered to shreds 6 feet away. Good example of how NOT to do it.) Anyhow, the 2nd pitch IS the 2nd pitch of 'Miss M, about 80' straight up to anchors at the ledge. You probably want to save rope and traverse over to the base of the 3rd pitch which starts about 10' right of 'Miss M. Follow 12 or 13 bolts right and up about 160' to the visible anchors on the headwall. The 4th pitch follows new bolts up right and over the headwall about 70' to the top. We rap'd the route, but you can walk off from the summit to the right. This could probably be done in 3 pitches by combining the first two with a long rope. Excellent rock, and if you think it's over bolted anywhere, don't clip.
Golden, CO
There are two new bolted sports lines that go through Helen's Dome south face, in the 5.6 range. The left one is Fractured Fairytales and spans 7 pitches. The right one is Roototop and spans 4 pitches (with some 5.8 moves).
Once on top of Helen, you can do the short pitch Derek Lawrence refers to as "a bolted route on the rock along the approach to Acid from Helen's which looks contrived and worthless as shit" to link Helen and Acid a bit more. Then you walk to the new 4-pitch line on Acid Rock that Rob Bauer describes above, and unfortunately intersects Mrs M. This is called Roototop as well.
Once on top of Acid, you can walk to the base of Sheep's SW Face (aka Velcro Wall) and keep going with a 5.6 60m pitch which I bolted. From there, you can easily walk up to the summit of Sheep's Rock, and enjoy one of the best 360 views in the Platte. Pete added some more bolts and an intermediate anchor at 30m, to rap using only one 60m rope. Then walk all the way back down the southern side of the formation.
Starting With the 7 easy pitches of Fractured Farytales, continuing with the 1 link pitch, then the 4 pitches on Acid Rock, then the 1 pitch to the top of Sheep, is called Tour de Platte. This was put up by Peter Hubbel and Claude Traufield in 2002. The 4 pitches on Acid Rock are the only ones that truly constitute technical slab climbing.
Inexperienced climbers should take 17 quickdraws to clip every bolt, and 2 ropes in case they want to rap off. A baker's dozen and 1 60m can do, or take more draws and simul-climb the easier ground on Helen - it sure beats walking up to Acid Rock!
All in all, the 12-Pitch Tour de Platte is one of the longer and easier climbing outing in the Platte, in a remote environment, with a friendly approach walk from Molly Gulch and a rewarding view from the top of sheep. Enjoy. Oct 6, 2008
Golden, CO