PRINT: Rock Climbing in Acid Rock, South Platte

Acid Rock

Colorado > S Platte > Goose Creek/Mol… > Sheeprock

Description

Acid Rock is the middle tier in the group of rocks beginning with Helen's Dome and ending with Velcro Wall (Sheep Rock's summit) It is 500' to 600' tall with immaculate granite slabs and a few good cracks. The first 200' to 400' holds the best climbing.

Getting There

The directions under Helen's Dome are concise and will get you there.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b X 1 ● Scary Monsters Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 17 ● Four Eyes Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 6 ● Sandinista Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 39 ● Charley Don't Surf Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c 17 ● The Divine Ms M. Trad, Sport 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 27 ● Unknown between Divine Miss M &… Sport 4 pitches

● Scary Monsters

5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b X Trad 3 pitches

● Four Eyes

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 2 pitches

● Sandinista

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad 2 pitches

● Charley Don't Surf

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad

● The Divine Ms M.

5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, Sport 4 pitches

● Unknown between Divine Miss…

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 4 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Baby Helen's and Acid Rock from the top of Helen's Dome.

Contemplating the walk to Acid Rock....

Roto top

Roto top. Third pitch

Acid Rock from the top of Helen's Dome

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matt Juth
Ridgway, CO

For some reason most of my description and directions are gone.....

The bridge has not been replaced! I didn't say that!

There is a log you can cross, with a handline north of the old bridge. You can get there by parking on the ridge just before you get to the old buried campground. You will see a "danger" sign, and a laminated piece of paper telling you that there is a log just east of the ridge top. Follow a trail along the top of the ridge, drop straight down to the river, and you will see it. From there, you can regain the old trail system on the other side of the river. Apr 27, 2005

rob bauer
Golden, CO

I did the route just left of Charlie Don't Surf, which Hubbel calls #39, Unknown 5.10b. The bolts are all 3/8". The 2nd pitch has about 9 or 10 bolts now, is a bit friable, and struck me and my partner as a lot harder than rated. (We both thought Pow Wow Canal was easier, which seems right at 11a.) It appears to be drawn right, with the 2nd pitch easing up when you reach the shallow crack slightly diagonalling up right to the anchors (with much appreciated beefy bolts just below the old chains). Anybody else think it's under-rated?

BTW, assuming Hubbel has the drawings right, I did see 5 or 6 bolts to the left of us on the 2nd pitch of Sandinista(?) are still the old Leeper hangers, no doubt with 1/4" Star Drive or Button Head bolts, though it appears there's been some work on the first pitch, including the 1st anchors with quick connects. Any thoughts on this? May 31, 2006

Michael Hartley

I made a note under Sandinista, but here’s some general information about the route to the right of it: I put up the two pitch route in the '90s, mostly rope solo, and all but the last bolt on lead. Polly Fiedler belayed me on the first pitch and for a couple of bolts on the second. It’s called Bit by Bit, since it took me quite a few trips up there to work on it, and each time I’d only get in a bolt or two. I thought it was pretty hard, but that kind of climbing isn’t my forte either. I certainly don’t think it’s 10 minus. To my knowledge, Bob Robertson did the first complete ascent. I was never able to pull it off continuously route solo. Jun 5, 2022