Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Acid Rock

Charley Don't Surf T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Divine Ms M., The T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Four Eyes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Sandinista T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Scary Monsters T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b X
Unknown between Divine Miss M & Erotic Plants S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Dave Dunblazer, Kathy ? Maybe others too.
Page Views: 858 total, 8/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Jun 29, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This was Dave's masterpiece of lead drilling. See the photo and topo for beta. It was the hardest face climb on the Sheep Rock Domes at the time it was put up.

Here's why the name. Dave was a Vietnam veteran who didn't like it when certain Americans were illegally supplying the Contras. Right after the Sandinista Revolution, he went down to Nicaragua, uninvited, to volunteer with the new government. He told me there were still many celebratory beach parties happening and that everyone was dancing to Michael Jackson. Since good ol' USA didn't recognize the new Nicaraguan government, Dave thought it pretty darn cool that Michael was our defacto ambassador.

Dave also made cool climbing gear. I still use the gear sling he made in 1984.

Protection

This was put up so it could be done with just the bolts. It was drilled on lead.

Photos

flynn  
Yeah, Slim, that water-runnel-stemming thing is called Divine Ms. M. Dave Kozak had a hand in its installation; I don't remember anything else about its history. 9- seems about right, and I remember that it was fun. Aug 11, 2013
slim

  5.11b PG13
slim    
  5.11b PG13
I've done the right line, you kind of stem up a pair of water runnels for a bit. I think it is part of the route 'route-to-top' or something like that. My notes say 5.9- , it's quite a bit easier than Sandanista. Really fun pitch. Nov 4, 2009
rob bauer
Golden, CO
 
rob bauer   Golden, CO
 
I had the exact same experience a few yrs earlier and asked about in on the Acid Rock pg. (nobody clarified since then) I agreed with your assessment of the grade with the same questions about the old bolts to the left. This is the line just left of Charlie Don't Surf and matches Sandinista topo/photo Ken Trout submitted.

Edit 5/26/12. It may be getting harder on P2. Nov 3, 2009
WMcD  
How are the bolts on pitch two of this route? And there is an unlisted route between Sandinista and Charlie Don't Surf?

From the belay at the end of the first pitch, I found two lines of bolts: old ones on the left, new ones on the right. I climbed the right line (which I think had a first pitch below me between Sandinista and Charlie), and I wasn't sure whether I was on Sandinista or some route that isn't in the books. The line up the new bolts was very thin and felt at least .11b, probably PG-13 as well. Jul 12, 2009