Type: Trad
FA: Leonard Coyne and Ed Russell? Steve Spaar and David Kozak, 1970s?
Page Views: 5,179 total · 20/month
Shared By: Derek Lawrence on May 26, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Once the walkoff from the top of Helen's Dome is reached (see area description), head southeast towards Acid Rock and scramble up and left around a large rock with a brand new bolted slab which looks to be all of 5.4. Follow a faint trail which trends right, around 2 more gigantic boulders to the base of Acid Rock. A tunnel leads down and left to the base of Charley and the Divine Ms. M.

Charley Don't Surf follows the immaculate finger crack up and left for 150'. Perfect finger locks and a hand jam or two bring you to the crux not far from the anchors. The thin-crack crux felt more like face climbing than crack climbing as you can't get a good lock till it's over. Continue to the top on 5.7 (looks like more larger cams needed) or rap the 1st pitch with double ropes (we rappelled).


Stoppers with emphasis on small/med sizes, TCUs and #2 Camalot or equivalent.