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Routes in Acid Rock

Charley Don't Surf T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Divine Ms M., The T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Four Eyes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Sandinista T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Scary Monsters T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b X
Unknown between Divine Miss M & Erotic Plants S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad
FA: Leonard Coyne and Ed Russell? Steve Spaar and David Kozak, 1970s?
Page Views: 3,279 total, 17/month
Shared By: Derek Lawrence on May 26, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

Once the walkoff from the top of Helen's Dome is reached (see area description), head southeast towards Acid Rock and scramble up and left around a large rock with a brand new bolted slab which looks to be all of 5.4. Follow a faint trail which trends right, around 2 more gigantic boulders to the base of Acid Rock. A tunnel leads down and left to the base of Charley and the Divine Ms. M.

Charley Don't Surf follows the immaculate finger crack up and left for 150'. Perfect finger locks and a hand jam or two bring you to the crux not far from the anchors. The thin-crack crux felt more like face climbing than crack climbing as you can't get a good lock till it's over. Continue to the top on 5.7 (looks like more larger cams needed) or rap the 1st pitch with double ropes (we rappelled).

Protection

Stoppers with emphasis on small/med sizes, TCUs and #2 Camalot or equivalent.
Shane Zentner
Colorado
Shane Zentner   Colorado
Consider the first 130 feet of the first pitch to be 5.8 fingers, then, very quickly, the finger crack thins into tight tips and the angle goes from steep to vertical for the remaining 20 feet. Insecure smearing with thin but good pro. I followed this pitch and was challenged to the bitter end. Jul 1, 2012
slim

  5.10d
slim    
  5.10d
Interesting, I had thought it was named after the Neil Young song. Oct 17, 2011
Steve Spaar and I climbed the route in the late '70s and named it after the Clash song. We thought we had done the first ascent of this fun route. Oct 14, 2011
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10d
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10d
Awesome route. 5.10+
Much of the crack is tips, with good locks in between. Slab foot technique helps considerably. Good gear when you need it. Double up on the stoppers. The move midway changing cracks is a kick in the pants. Final crux is insecure tips with foot smears. Several good rests to shake out the feeties.

You would be fine with nothing bigger than #1 Camalot. Offset Aliens are nice to have. Jun 21, 2008
rob bauer
Golden, CO
 
rob bauer   Golden, CO
 
I was on this route yesterday and didn't find any bolts on the pitch, just the anchors. (It's refreshing not to find bolts on a crack, but we rap'd after the 1st pitch.) Double set of wires helpful. May 8, 2006
Brian Weinstein
  5.10d
Brian Weinstein  
  5.10d
This route involves perfect rock, perfect gear, and a thought-provoking crux in a prime setting. Definitely one of the better finger cracks around. Sep 17, 2005
Matt Juth
Evergreen
Matt Juth   Evergreen
Are they just before the crux? If so, I guess it makes for a good pitch of easy finger crack now.... Jun 2, 2005
Derek Lawrence
Bailey
  5.10d
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
  5.10d
RE: The added anchors.That sucks to hear that someone did that. How close to the crack are they? If I recall, you could always swing/tension right to the anchors on The Divine Ms. M. if you wanted. Convenience anchors like this seem to keep springing up. Sounds like these would be a good candidate for removal/repair.... Jun 2, 2005
Tom Kelley
  5.10d
Tom Kelley  
  5.10d
So who's the wing-nut who added a two-bolt station halfway up this fine pitch? Apparently this was done to allow rappeling the route with a single rope, but it's still in very bad taste. Jun 1, 2005