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Routes in Acid Rock
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Charley Don't Surf T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Divine Ms M., The T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Four Eyes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Sandinista T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Scary Monsters T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b X |
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Unknown between Divine Miss M & Erotic Plants S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 4 pitches |
| FA: | David Kozak and Eric Boelke |
| Page Views: | 5,049 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Derek Lawrence on May 26, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Approach as for Charlie Don't Surf. Climb the first 30 feet of Charley and traverse right to the first bolt. Weave up the rock past 2-3 more bolts to the 1st anchor. The 2nd pitch follows 7-8 bolts up the dark water groove with a slight crux at the top. The stemming and edging up the feldspar crystals in the groove makes this a 3 star route in my book.
This past year, someone has bolted what seems to be an alternative start to this route. It starts up to the right of the wide crack (Erotic Plants-5.6) crosses the crack and continues past a few more bolts to a new set of anchors 10' right of divine's 1st pitch anchors. The rating and quality of this new start is unknown. (It is VERY well protected though).
Rap the route from the top of the second pitch with double ropes (a single rope will rope probably get you to the anchors of the new route). The guidebook shows a 3rd and 4th pitch to the top, but these seem to be rarely done.
This past year, someone has bolted what seems to be an alternative start to this route. It starts up to the right of the wide crack (Erotic Plants-5.6) crosses the crack and continues past a few more bolts to a new set of anchors 10' right of divine's 1st pitch anchors. The rating and quality of this new start is unknown. (It is VERY well protected though).
Rap the route from the top of the second pitch with double ropes (a single rope will rope probably get you to the anchors of the new route). The guidebook shows a 3rd and 4th pitch to the top, but these seem to be rarely done.
Photos
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