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Sherwood Forest Rock Climbing
Routes in Sherwood Forest
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Boyz From The Hood S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fatman and Robin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Little John's Big Stick T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Maid Marian S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Men in Tights S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Merry Men S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Prince and The Pauper, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Prince of Thieves S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Robbin' the Hood S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sheriff's Tariff S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tony Bubb's Little Stick S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tuckered and Fried S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
| Elevation: | 6,850 ft | 2,088 m |
| GPS: |
40.0014, -105.3959 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 52,265 total · 179/month | |
| Shared By: | Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000 | |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
Details
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
Hidden in Boulder Canyon is a tall but thin sport climbing crag with a variety of routes, most of which are high quality. Most routes require nothing but draws.
L->R:
A. Boyz From The Hood, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
B. The Prince and The Pauper, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts.
C. Merry Men, 11-, 1p, 70', bolts.
D. Robbin' The Hood, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
E. Prince Of Thieves, 12-, 1p, bolts.
F. Sheriff's Tariff, 11-, 1p, bolts.
G. Tuckered And Fried, 10, 1p, bolts.
H. Fatman And Robin, 10+, 1p, 70', bolts.
I. Men In Tights, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts.
J. Little John's Big Stick, 9+, 1p, 80', gear.
K. Tony Bubb's Little Stick, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.
L. Maid Marian, 9-, 1p, 80', bolts.
Above: It's My Swamp, 8, 3p, 370', gear.
L->R:
A. Boyz From The Hood, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
B. The Prince and The Pauper, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts.
C. Merry Men, 11-, 1p, 70', bolts.
D. Robbin' The Hood, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
E. Prince Of Thieves, 12-, 1p, bolts.
F. Sheriff's Tariff, 11-, 1p, bolts.
G. Tuckered And Fried, 10, 1p, bolts.
H. Fatman And Robin, 10+, 1p, 70', bolts.
I. Men In Tights, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts.
J. Little John's Big Stick, 9+, 1p, 80', gear.
K. Tony Bubb's Little Stick, 10, 1p, 80', bolts.
L. Maid Marian, 9-, 1p, 80', bolts.
Above: It's My Swamp, 8, 3p, 370', gear.
Getting There
Go about 6.8 miles up Boulder Canyon, and park on the left side of the road about 200 yards after passing Cob Rock on the left side (this pullout is also used for Happy Hour Crag). There is a tyrolean across the creek about 200 yards upstream of this pullout. It's attached to a big, flat boulder on the road side and a big tree on the far side.
You can also park at the Bihedral pullout, 7.0 miles up the canyon on the left side, and walk 150 yards downstream to the tyrolean.
From the far side of the tyrolean, take a trail to the left to Witches' Tower. Then continue up and right on a steep trail to get to Sherwood Forest. About 100 yards up, the bolted face climbs appear.
Classic Climbing Routes at Sherwood Forest
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
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