Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Dianne Barrow and Mike Dallin, 2002
Page Views: 4,215 total · 22/month
Shared By: Tony B on Aug 3, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


170 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This bolted line lies immediately left of Little John's Big Stick. Unlike the other lines at this cliff, this one is outfitted with rust-red bolt hangers. Climb up the route on decent feet and a lot of side-pulls and stems on the slabby face for 50' until you pop right under a small bulge. This will "squeeze" you in close to LJBS for a move before you sep back left through another steep bulge to another bolt and a set of rap anchors. To descend, rap the route.

The steep bulges look intimidating from the ground, but are filled with jugs. The crux is actually the lower angled lower section.

Protection

A set of draws (8?) to a bolted anchor.
Bill Zabaronick
  5.10a
Bill Zabaronick  
  5.10a
This was a great route. Very straightforward and fun. Pleasant and unimposing; the clipping stances are solid. May 9, 2005
Aeon Aki    
 
A good variety of climbing, and though the top looks chossy, it actually climbs very well. Oct 4, 2007
Ben Cassedy
Denver, CO
  5.10a
Ben Cassedy   Denver, CO
  5.10a
Good warmup for the wall. Aug 15, 2010
Andrew Locke
Louisville, CO
  5.10b
Andrew Locke   Louisville, CO
  5.10b
The slab down low is fun and thought provoking. The top felt like a gym climb with how much chalk was on all the holds. Jun 7, 2014