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Routes in Sherwood Forest

Boyz From The Hood S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fatman and Robin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Little John's Big Stick T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Maid Marian S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Men in Tights S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Merry Men S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prince and The Pauper, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prince of Thieves S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Robbin' the Hood S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sheriff's Tariff S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tony Bubb's Little Stick S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tuckered and Fried S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport
FA: Richard Wright, 1997
Page Views: 3,274 total · 15/month
Shared By: Walt Wehner on Dec 31, 2000 with updates from JFM
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


This is, IMO, the best route at Sherwood Forest. It isn't particularly sustained, but the roof jugs will get you psyched for the last 20 feet. Climbs a vertical face to a small (3 or 4 foot) roof (there are apparently some kind of rules about which way you go up the roof to make it harder/easier, but it seemed the same both ways to me). Not as hard as it looks by any stretch of the imagination. I think Rossiter rated it 11d or something, which is just ridiculous (like most of the Sherwood Forest ratings). Do it!

Unlike the neighbors to the right, the hangers are rust-colored coldshuts.


8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
I think it's supposed to be 5.11d if you go over the roof and head left. It's not .11a, but it's not .11d either. Probably (by canyon ratings) an .11c... If you head right over the roof, it's about .11a. Sep 6, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
I don't know that there are any rules about which way to go, but the Left is the better line.

Not bad for a short route. It gives the chance to do some overhang without too stout of a grade or getting too pumped. If taking into account the critter poop that was on it this summer you'd subtract one of the two stars though.

5.10b right or 5.11a left -by modern sport standards. If comparing to a route like Gates Of Eden or Left Wing, then the route goes 5.9 right or 5.10a/b left, but let's face it, those are hard at the grade. Nov 8, 2002
The holds tend to push you to the right towards Tuckered and Fried, for the first half of the route. The moves are much easier the farther right you go, including at the roof. Following or going left of the bolt line makes this route significantly harder (11d seems reasonable to me). Otherwise the line of least resistance is 11-. Aug 25, 2003
desbien   seattle,wa
Tony- what do think of this line relative to Skippin' Stones in CCC? That can of worms aside, this is a fun line with really one big move to gain the roof. I think this was 11a- I can't flash 11d. Jul 23, 2007
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
My roof beta: Left sidepull (there are three obvious sidepulls and I only used the middle one) while right is on a "ball" like right hand side pull. Left foot up on a ledge just below the huge ledge...right heel toe hook deep in the ledge. Then static right hand reach up to the very beginning of the jugs. Move the right hand progressively back left to better jugs...bring the feet up and the left hand. Clip. Then establish your feet high and move as far right as you can on the jugs. Throw right to a horn. One more pull in and move your feet up move and it is over.

If that isn't specific enough.... Jul 2, 2008
Mitch Stubbs
Mitch Stubbs   Boulder
I found this route to be easier than No Direction Home on the Witches Tower, even with going left, and pulling through the roof with my left on the pinch. 11a is sandbagged compared to a typical Boco grade, but it's an honest one. Jun 17, 2017
Dennis Collinson
San Francisco, California
Dennis Collinson   San Francisco, California
I think the new guidebook rating of 11c is correct. Saying this is 11- is a classic sandbag. Jul 17, 2017

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