Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Alan Nelson, 2005
Page Views: 519 total · 3/month
Shared By: Alan Nelson on Aug 8, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


Climb the face between Tuckered and Fried (5.10c) and Men In Tights (5.10b), then tackle the roofs above directly, joining Tuckered and Fried when it comes in from the left.

Eds. This is a combination of submissions on the 1st submission's page. There was confusion perhaps due to difficulty getting in contact with the FA due to a move.


Per Mike Robinson: this route is the bolted line two routes left of Little John's Big Stick and two routes right of Tuckered and Fried.


8 (9?) bolts (sharing the last clip) to the anchor of "Tuckered and Fried".


Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
Thin 5.10 face climbing with some tricky moves leading to an imposing roof. A little "new route grunge" doesn't detract from the quality of the moves. I clipped the 6th bolt over the roof and moved left to bigger holds instead of tackling the roof directly. Moving back right was a challenge and I took a few hangs to figure out the moves. I eventually got back on route and finished the climb.

The way I did it was harder than 10c and my initial attempt at tackling the roof directly felt harder than 10c, so I'll give the route an 11a grade .

Next time, I'll try the roof straight on and see if I can figure out the sequence. Aug 13, 2004
Bill Zabaronick
Bill Zabaronick  
This was a FUN route! Just wondering if anyone else has found that you can stem from the small dihedral/arete to the far right flaring crack? Or a knee bar @ the first roof? Also, any beta on the moves over the second roof? They seemed a little sketchy and took a bit of mental strength for what I consider a 10. I'd call it a 10+. May 9, 2005
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
It took a while to figure out which route might be right of 'Tuckered and Fried', but only 2 routes left of 'Little John', because there are 3 routes between.
Eventually we settled on the conclusion that the left most of the uncertain routes was easier (Fatman and Robin), and the right route was harder (The Avenger). This route is 2 routes to the right of Tuckered and Fried.

Which anchor are you supposed to finish on? You can go left or right from the last bolt, or perhaps directly up (which I did for 20 feet or so though one more roof). Seems like another anchor could add more climbing, one more bulge, and leave it separated from the others.

The best of the 'new' routes here. Jugs through a roof for a crux, but I didn't find a crux down low as stated in the description. Jul 3, 2008
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
Dean Cool   Boulder, CO
We found this climb by counting two climbs right of Sheriff's Tariff (an obvious line up the white dike). The second last bolt moves right of Tuckered and Fired then back left and shares the last bolt + anchors. Jun 1, 2009
Fun route, although a little confusing at the middle tier of the three roofs. There are two lines of bolts above the first roof. I was intending to climb T&F but moved back right which (I think) was Avenger [now clarified as Fatman and Robin]. I clipped after I gained the roof, but clipping as you move from left to right is probably a better idea. I found the move to be a little harder than Merry Men. Very balancy as you're forced to push out with you left hand from below as you try to find something for your right.

The middle section has some great stemming moves once you reach the right-facing block. No hands! May 17, 2010