Type: Sport
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 568 total · 3/month
Shared By: Quinn Stevens on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

108 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


This is the third from left route at the crag. After an initially powerful move, balance your way up the tricky seam to the top. Don't be afraid to traverse slightly left of the bolts when the climbing turns thin.


Standard sport rack. 7 bolts to a two bolt anchor. The climb stops at the roof, and the bolts for the anchor are about a yard apart. Addendum: apparently these anchors have been fixed.


Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Terrific little route. Lots of sidepulls. 11b is generous. Well worth the effort. Mar 5, 2002
Top left, cold-shut anchor is a spinner, with shaft and hole eroded, if folks clean off any more to the left, downgrade to 5.10, nevertheless still cool.... Sep 2, 2002
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Although this as well as Robbin' The Hood are shown in the Rossiter Boulder Canyon guidebook (p. 47) as continuing past the 7th bolt, the rock above is covered in lichen. We ended up traversing right along the ledge and continuing to the top of Prince of Theives, which ends up being about 12 bolts (total) to a 2 bolt anchor and makes for a nice, slightly longer linkup. Oct 29, 2003
Fun route, hard down low, but I couldn't quite find the 11b staying straight on the bolts. Jul 13, 2005
Aeon Aki    
Devious climbing if you don't escape left to the right-trending rail at the bottom. The anchors seem straight up dangerous; too far apart, left one spins, and awkward to clip. Besides, this thing should pull the roof; it looks like it would go sub 5.12. Maybe some new anchors (does anyone even care)? Oct 4, 2007
Boulder, CO
Jeremy   Boulder, CO
I really liked this route. I climbed it clean just after doing another 11b, so it's probably more like 11a.
I escaped left and had a hard time cleaning the route. I couldn't tell if the route was supposed to continue through the lichen or stop at the 2 bolts that were 4 feet apart. Jun 16, 2008
Brent Apgar
Out of the Loop
Brent Apgar   Out of the Loop
Just an update. Did this route today and someone has been generous enough to fix the anchor situation referred to above. There is a sold two bolt anchor w/ rings directly above the line of the climb. Nov 7, 2009
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
Hmmm...Merry Men seems to be yet another one of those sport climbs that just can't decide what it wants to be.

11b?!? For Christ's sake. Sure, yah, I suppose if you restrict yourself severely to just certain holds, it'd clock in as an 11. But, like the vast majority of sport climbers out there, I consider anything within an arm's reach of the bolt line (like the nubs and the scrubs around to the left) to be decidedly in bounds (and NOT an "escape" as some would have it). Use those close-n-easy-to-reach, natural features on the left and Merry Men comes in at a merry 10d. Maybe even 10c. Challenging, but certainly NOT an 11.

The point? Don't. Inflate. Grades. If it's within reach, it's game. And if it's game, then WHY make a contrivance? Why make artificial a line that comes in just fine on its own, even if it's a bit easier than originally imagined?

Otherwise, let's just hack off a limb, wear Crisco for shoes, and call every thing out there a V37. Aug 21, 2010
Rick Vermeil
Erie, CO
Rick Vermeil   Erie, CO
Top Rope Hero is right on with the above comment. I think that this line is no harder than 10c/d unless you stay directly in line with the bolts. Moving left on the slab at the 2nd bolt is the most logical, obvious, and natural feeling way to do this route and keeps you well within arm's reach of the bolts. I tried to find the 11- moves by staying directly on the bolt line last night. It is certainly harder and probably 5.11 doing it this way, but it felt really contrived. It's a fun route no matter how you do it, but I agree that its not an 11- unless you really want it to be. Jun 24, 2015
Hansen Wendlandt
Hansen Wendlandt  
Wow, what a gem! No move seemed harder than 10d, and although there may have been a dozen at that grade, you got a nice rest every few moves. This could be great for someone breaking into lead at this grade. Or, this is a piece of cake to TR from Prince and Pauper. Jul 28, 2018