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Elevation: 7,627 ft 2,325 m
GPS: 38.80482, -120.00376
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Page Views: 15,273 total · 56/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Oct 14, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description Suggest change

The Detox Wall has some great moderate (10.a to 11.b/c) sport routes. The granite is very unique and the climbing is pumpy and fun. Good for a day of cragging.

Numerous weathered cracks wind their way up Detox wall. The climbing tends to use these cracks and other features on the verical granite face. Climbs vary from 5.9 to 5.11d, and tend to be pretty sustained for the entirety of the 50 feet of climbing. There are also some sport routes not mentioned in Carville's guide around the corner to the right, they go at .10d, .10c and .9 from left to right.

Getting There Suggest change

Upon reaching the Distillery Wall, walk down and to the right around the base of Luther Rock. You will come to a low-angle slab from which the climb Jonesin' ascends to the main ledge below Detox Wall. If climbing this 10a doesn't appeal to you, you may also continue around the base of the rock and ascend a chimney to reach the ledge, or 10 feet left of the chimney there is an easy face (5.5) that you may solo. The climbs not mentioned in the book start right of the chimney, beneath the ledge, so don't climb up there for these climbs.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Detox Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 42
Betty Ford's Route
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 42
Jonesin'
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 35
Methadone
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 29
Daily Prayer
Sport, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 20
Unknown
Sport, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 28
Intervention
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 23
With Draws
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 15
Loading Dose
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 15
Fallen Spirits
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Betty Ford's Route
 42
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Jonesin'
 42
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Methadone
 35
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Daily Prayer
 29
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
Unknown
 20
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
Intervention
 28
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
With Draws
 23
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Loading Dose
 15
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Fallen Spirits
 15
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Detox Wall »

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