Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Detox Wall

California > Lake Tahoe > S Shore > Luther Rock

Description

The Detox Wall has some great moderate (10.a to 11.b/c) sport routes. The granite is very unique and the climbing is pumpy and fun. Good for a day of cragging.

Numerous weathered cracks wind their way up Detox wall. The climbing tends to use these cracks and other features on the verical granite face. Climbs vary from 5.9 to 5.11d, and tend to be pretty sustained for the entirety of the 50 feet of climbing. There are also some sport routes not mentioned in Carville's guide around the corner to the right, they go at .10d, .10c and .9 from left to right.

Getting There

Upon reaching the Distillery Wall, walk down and to the right around the base of Luther Rock. You will come to a low-angle slab from which the climb Jonesin' ascends to the main ledge below Detox Wall. If climbing this 10a doesn't appeal to you, you may also continue around the base of the rock and ascend a chimney to reach the ledge, or 10 feet left of the chimney there is an easy face (5.5) that you may solo. The climbs not mentioned in the book start right of the chimney, beneath the ledge, so don't climb up there for these climbs.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 42
Jonesin'
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 20
Unknown
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 35
Methadone
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 23
With Draws
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 15
Loading Dose
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 15
Fallen Spirits
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 6
Straight Jacket
Sport, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 28
Intervention
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 29
Daily Prayer
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 42
Betty Ford's Route
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Jonesin'
 42
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Unknown
 20
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
Methadone
 35
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
With Draws
 23
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Loading Dose
 15
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Fallen Spirits
 15
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Straight Jacket
 6
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, TR
Intervention
 28
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Daily Prayer
 29
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
Betty Ford's Route
 42
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Detox Wall
[Hide Photo] Detox Wall
Detox wall at sunset from the scree field portion of the approach / descent trail.  All the climbs can be seen on the wall except for the 5.9, which is immediately around to the right of the picture.
[Hide Photo] Detox wall at sunset from the scree field portion of the approach / descent trail. All the climbs can be seen on the wall except for the 5.9, which is immediately around to the right of the picture.
Luther Rock Overview Map
[Hide Photo] Luther Rock Overview Map